ground connection on dedicated line?


I'm planning to install two 20A dedicated lines for my system and I'm wondering if the isolated ground on the receptacles should be connected to the general house ground, or to an independent ground. Any light you can shed on this would be appreciated.

Thanks much,
lewinskih01
Elescher, I keep seeing recommendations like yours and then I keep seeing others state that this is a violation of electrical code in the U.S. I know one can physically do what you describe, but is this in compliance with code?

Anyone?
.
Lewinski,

Using separate grounding rods is a violation of the National Electrical Code and also a great way to commit suicide.
If you can afford it, have the electrician use steel (NOT aluminum) BX armored cable (instead of Romex) and steel boxes, whichever way you decide to go. If you're having the outlets installed, running the 3 wire plus ground cable with isolated ground outlets can't possibly hurt, might help (esp. if you use the BX) and won't cost all that much more.
If you wish to discuss this further, you may e-mail me.
All electrical codes that I know of specifically state that every electrical service must be grounded at the source (utility) transformer and that all equipment grounds must terminate at that point. In other words, there can only be one point that ALL grounding conductors or grounding paths terminate, and that point is usually the house water main or ground rod. The water main/ground rod is connected directly to the neutral bus of the main service panel which in turn is connected to the utility transformer ground.

This does two things: first, any surges, static or spikes from lightning are dissipated. The utility transformer completes the circuit from the house ground to the transformer ground which permits the energy to be dissipated into the earth. If you place a second ground rod at any circuit as Elescher states above, then what could happen is that the energy from a lighting surge will be short-circuit to the second ground rod (away from the utility transformer) and the surge will backfeed into that receptacle, frying anything connected to it.

Second: if you place a seperate ground rod at a receptacle and there's a fault on the equipment, the circuit breaker may not trip. The ground rod will have a resistance, say, of 25 ohms. A 120 volt fault will cause a current of 5 amps to flow (120V/25ohms) - not enough to trip a 20-amp circuit breaker but enough to be dangerous to the touch. If you touch the equipment with one hand, not a problem. But with two hands, the space between your hands is a conductor and you will get a jolt. That's why most sensible amp technicians never put both hands inside a live amp chassis.

Bottom line: add the extra ground at your own risk. Illegal and a tad dangerous.
Audiophile's and there zeal to avoid noise forget about the safety aspect of a ground wire. Your equipment needs the ground (the bare copper wire) connected at the receptacle and directly back at the main breaker panel on the ground bus so you have a return path to trip the circuit breaker in the event your component has a short between the hot lead and the casework. Of course you must leave the ground prong on your equipment cable intact also...no cheater plugs.