Disconnect the woofer

The 20.1 X-over's Hi-Pass section has 120.3uF of capacitance after the jumpers and before the signal is further split into MF/HF. If he's not removing the LF via an active x-over b4 the main amp, he's basically "passively bi-amping". Not the cleanest or best way, but it'll work.

Yes, it seems that I am passivly bi-amping the Mid/high by sending a full range signal through the maggie crossover. I did this because I did not want to mess with the best part of the speaker. I couldn't do a better job at voicing the speaker than the manufacturer could. So all I am doing is cutting off the woofer panel and actively powering the lows (<110 Hz.) through an open baffled bass module. I tried removing the jumpers and hooking to the mid/high of the external crossover but I got no sound at all this way. I don't know why.

Are you the first owner of those Maggies? Perhaps someone modded the X-overs? If they are original, and you get no output, correctly hooked up/jumpers removed; something's amiss.

Inductors and capacitors do not soak up power and get hot in the sense that a resistor does......and therefore don't produce lots of heat.
However, given improper design, you have a situation where the current and voltage are out of 'sync'....This can be measured in degrees of displacement. At 90 degrees, for example (never seen in a loudspeaker) there is NO POWER delivered to the load. So, even if you had a 500 watt amp and 93db sensitive speakers, they would be silent, at least at the frequency where the 90 degree displacement occurred.
Lesser amounts of displacement result in power loss as well.
This is called POWER FACTOR and is the real reason some speakers can be considered a BAD LOAD, not simply low impedance.... Or my Maggies, though power hungry, would be considered such a bad load. They present a fairly benign phase angle situation above and below the 600hz xover.
This is also the difference between VA and power in Watts, also measured as the product of volts and amps.....