IMO, the key is for the reviewer to have a consistent system that they are very familiar with, so when the reviewed component or speakers are placed into the system, the reviewer can accurately describe the sonic result, and also make comparisons with other similar equipment they have heard in the same system. The reviewer should also describe any anomalies with the system or room and how those impact the review.
What I would have issue with is, if a reviewer were to place equipment in a system that does not match electrically (e.g., impedance mismatches) or if the review rig in general is not well-suited for the equipment being reviewed, such as reviewing a Krell amp (known for world class bass) with small monitor speakers (known for limited bass below 60hz); or reviewing large speakers, made to produce high spl's in large rooms with an extended powerful bass response, and putting them in a small room. Duh, no wonder it doesn't sound good. I think the wire is small potatoes as long as the reviewer is familiar with their system, and as long as the impedances, efficiencies, room and system characteristics are appropriate for the equipment under review.
Finally, no review is the final word, but simply a subjective opinion based on the reviewer's experience with other equipment and listening preferences.
What I would have issue with is, if a reviewer were to place equipment in a system that does not match electrically (e.g., impedance mismatches) or if the review rig in general is not well-suited for the equipment being reviewed, such as reviewing a Krell amp (known for world class bass) with small monitor speakers (known for limited bass below 60hz); or reviewing large speakers, made to produce high spl's in large rooms with an extended powerful bass response, and putting them in a small room. Duh, no wonder it doesn't sound good. I think the wire is small potatoes as long as the reviewer is familiar with their system, and as long as the impedances, efficiencies, room and system characteristics are appropriate for the equipment under review.
Finally, no review is the final word, but simply a subjective opinion based on the reviewer's experience with other equipment and listening preferences.