Audio Rack Construction

I had an old Mike Green rack. Very good in its time. I did learn to replace all the steel with brass for much improved sound. Don't try to isolate with rubber or any other type of suspended material. If you couple all the way thru and then mechanically couple all the componets to the shelves and couple the rack to the floor with audiopoints or stillpoints then you will have a decent sounding rack. Last thing is to look away from pressed materials such as mdf..lotsa mass and glue for that over damped and dead sound. Vibration can be given direction away from components and a damped shelf or component will disrupt direction and slow the transfer of energy away from the device your trying to enhance. If you can manage to use solid wood shelves this would be better than a non directional material like mdf. Think of the rack as a musical instrument in that you want it to be active {though rigid] and with more playing time it will create its own vibrational direction and become even more open and coherent. Place your most active components on the middle shevles. The center area will give your tubes, your turntable and your transport the greatest stability and audible coherence. In the end you want to provide a path and direction for all of these vibrations to pass thru and out and be coupled [discharged] to the higher mass of ground..the floor. Tom

Thanks guys for the source information and excellent advice. Does anyone have an idea on how to finish off the ends of the rods for the top shelf? I've seen round nuts and end caps on manufactured racks but am having problems locating.

Kenny, I like the Salamander rack; it is a well-made, affordable product for basic use. But if you are rolling your own you can probably do better. IMHO the main problems with the Salamander racks are that the light weight and rigid design work against the geometry: that is, small movements at the bottom of the rack result in larger movement at the top. This can make it especcially problematic for use with a turntable, for example, if you are on a suspended wood floor. The (optional) spikes are terrible, and I would like to see Salamander offer a floating shelf option for the line.

If you are determined to copy the Salamander design why not just but a unit and make your own maple shelves for it? You could resell the stock shelves and probably recoup most of the cost of the unit. Just a thought...

I got a lot of helpful suggestions on a similar topic here:

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1158841915&openmine&zzJdoris&4&5#Jdoris

BR3098 - Thanks, I'm just copying the threaded rod concept from Salemander and will be using heavier maple shelves and as recommended, shot inside the external tubing around the rod. The end result should be a lot heavier and more rigid. I'm not placing my turntabl;e on this rack.

Jdoris - Thanks for the link I will check it out.