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Audio Rack Construction

Happy New Year All!

I'm planning a rack with three wood (maple) shelves using threaded rod as the supports. This will be something similar to Salamander racks. Besides, the metal washers and nuts, I'm going to be using some type of isolation washer that will contact the top and bottom of each shelf.
So...shelf, isoloation washer, metal washer, and then nut.

Questions: 1. When passing the threaded rod through each shelf, should the holes in the shelves not allow the threaded rod to touch, so the only thing touching the shelves are the isolation washers? 2. Besides neoprene, what's a good material for the isolation washers? 3. After leveling each shelf during assembly, I'm planning to add aluminum tubing over the threaded rod and nuts between each shelf for a cleaner look. This would mean that the top and bottom ends of the aluminum tubing would also contact the shelves. Should I avoid this, or additionally add some isolation material between the ends of the tubes and the shelves?
kennythekey
yioryos's avatar
yioryos
723 posts
 
Kenny
I would advice to make a jig.I am not sure how big is your drill press,mine is floor standing and big,but you could make a 3/4 thick plywood base the size of the shelves with one corner blocked by using 1x2 cleats screwed down in square and spaced away enough,that will act as a nest for the shelves to get a consistent and accurate but easy hole location every time.Use a Forsten bit and also the plywood base will protect the underside from wood splitting when the spinning forstner bit exits.
Best of luck
George
kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Thanks guys.

I got it done and it's perfect...whew!!!

I mean perfect in my mind, you know?

I got lucky. Home Depot had pre-cut acrylic exactly the size of my shelves (24 X 18"). I made a template to fit over the shelves and marked/drilled small holes from the corners. Then drilled the 13/16" holes with my drill press. I simply attached a board to the base of the drill press that supported the shelves just fine. Later, I stacked my shelves and all of the holes lined up perfect. A little anxiety can go a long way!

Anyway, I just got my Walnut Oil, but still have to wait on the feet. I'm having a local machine shop drill and tap my Mapleshade Heavy Feet to 3/4"-10. Still waiting, so more news later.
kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Hi All!

Jdoris had suggested using Walnut Oil and I like the idea and have it. I also checked out some of your rack pictures and saw that many of you have a redish tint to your wood.

Have you accomplished this using Maple, or are you using Cherry instead? I'm asking because my shelves are Maple and the Walnut Oil looks like it will leave a greenish tint.
jdoris
972 posts
 
Hey Kenny. I've not gotten anything like a greenish tint. I think Walnut Oil won't add much color, and will stay pretty "true." The maple for my rack was pretty dark to begin with, with some tints running to reddish. This summer, I refinished the butcher block work table in my study, which is quite blond maple, and it stayed that way with Walnut Oil. Not much of greenish tint on my cutting boards, either. Of course, with wood finishes (even more than audio!) the results depend a lot on the particulars of the situation. John
kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Thanks, John.

I already went at it with the Walnur Oil, and it looks nice. The instructions aren't clear, so I suppose I'll give it a few coats and plenty of time to dry. I found a penetrating oil stain in Cherry but it used urethane as a hardening agent and I don't want that.

I also found a spray-on clear laquer that's not made from plastic. Instead, it's nitrocellulose based (cotton). I'm considering using this on the brass to prevent oxidation because I prefer a bright brass look over a patina.
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