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Audio Rack Construction

Happy New Year All!

I'm planning a rack with three wood (maple) shelves using threaded rod as the supports. This will be something similar to Salamander racks. Besides, the metal washers and nuts, I'm going to be using some type of isolation washer that will contact the top and bottom of each shelf.
So...shelf, isoloation washer, metal washer, and then nut.

Questions: 1. When passing the threaded rod through each shelf, should the holes in the shelves not allow the threaded rod to touch, so the only thing touching the shelves are the isolation washers? 2. Besides neoprene, what's a good material for the isolation washers? 3. After leveling each shelf during assembly, I'm planning to add aluminum tubing over the threaded rod and nuts between each shelf for a cleaner look. This would mean that the top and bottom ends of the aluminum tubing would also contact the shelves. Should I avoid this, or additionally add some isolation material between the ends of the tubes and the shelves?
kennythekey
kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Hi All!

Jdoris had suggested using Walnut Oil and I like the idea and have it. I also checked out some of your rack pictures and saw that many of you have a redish tint to your wood.

Have you accomplished this using Maple, or are you using Cherry instead? I'm asking because my shelves are Maple and the Walnut Oil looks like it will leave a greenish tint.
jdoris
972 posts
 
Hey Kenny. I've not gotten anything like a greenish tint. I think Walnut Oil won't add much color, and will stay pretty "true." The maple for my rack was pretty dark to begin with, with some tints running to reddish. This summer, I refinished the butcher block work table in my study, which is quite blond maple, and it stayed that way with Walnut Oil. Not much of greenish tint on my cutting boards, either. Of course, with wood finishes (even more than audio!) the results depend a lot on the particulars of the situation. John
kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Thanks, John.

I already went at it with the Walnur Oil, and it looks nice. The instructions aren't clear, so I suppose I'll give it a few coats and plenty of time to dry. I found a penetrating oil stain in Cherry but it used urethane as a hardening agent and I don't want that.

I also found a spray-on clear laquer that's not made from plastic. Instead, it's nitrocellulose based (cotton). I'm considering using this on the brass to prevent oxidation because I prefer a bright brass look over a patina.
jdoris
972 posts
 
Yes, I'd go several coats, rubbed hard with four ought steel wool, followed by soft rag, final coat with soft rag. I rushed my table, and the wood is underprotected. The brass will patina if not treated. Not sure what to use, though.
kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Thanks, I just rubbed the oil in with a cloth. I'm in Colorado where it's pretty dry, so I better look into the steel wool.

The worst part of this project, is cleaning the brass rods that I got from McMasters. I spent about twenty five minutes last night on one rod and I'm still not quite done. I did the two-stage dishwasher soap/Brasso cleaning that produced many blackened rags. Makes me want to seal the rods instead of letting them oxidize again. For me, it's always most difficult to finish those final details, but I am looking forward to the assembly.

The only negative I see with the nitrocellulose based laquer is that it's highly flamable as it's a relative of dynamite. Windows open, turn off the electric heat...and it's winter!
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