Tarjin, No question, for those that are able to have over-rated dedicated lines installed that should always be the priority, before power distribution or after-market power cords are considered. Having two separate 20A dedicated lines is a great base-line because you increase current availability for the system from 15A or 20A to 40A and you can isolate high-current (amps) from low-current electronics on separate lines. Ground loop hum can be avoided by making sure each AC line is of equal distance going back to the panel (this avoids impedance to ground differential that causes hum). For those with dedicated lines, the benefits of decent power-ditribution and AC cords becomes even more noticeable than for those without. This can be explained.
Regardless of whether there are dedicated lines installed or not, whatever the available peak-current measurement is at your wall outlet, you will lose in the neighborhood of 50% of peak current and voltage going through a cheap 14,16 or 18 gauge power cord. There are several reasons for this. Primary among them are the way molded cords are terminated and their insufficient gauge.
Stock AC cords are not crimped or soldered at either end. The blades behind the AC pins in molded cords merely cut through the insulation and scarcely make contact with the wire. This is fine if you are powering a toaster or a light, but AV electronic power supplies pull power dynamically off the peak and trough of the wave-form. Contact integrity at the initial outward AC junctions of an amp for instance, is of paramount importance to preserving peak-current availability to the rectifiers. The longer the rectifiers stay open in order to fill storage caps, the greater potential for high-frequency noise contamination to the power supply (that part is educated theory).
AC delivery to AV gear is a dynamic, two-way process. Components don't sit at the end of a power hose. They represent the inception of an electrical interface. Therefore, near field contact integrity matters as much as contact points and over-rated AC mains downstream from the system.
Large amounts of money need not be spent to make power cord connections with electronics better. There are less expensive DIY options using good connectors and 12 gauge or better wire. There are also less expensive commercial power cords available that don't cost "hundreds of dollars" from any number of companies. This isn't to say that the only purpose of a better power cord is to improve peak-current transfer, but because stock cords are SO poor at this one aspect, it is a fundamental reason people report hearing improvements when using them.
None of this is meant to infer that after-market cords are more critical than dedicated lines; they are not. However, if you consider AC delivery from a "system" approach, power cords are the first outward link in your AC chain, not the last. Whatever sits behind your wall, whatever it might be, is what it is. Better to have a decent cord to the amp (at least) than to measurably lose 50% of whatever peak-current you have available at your outlet. By the way, that is also a reason to spend $25 on a Hubbel 5362 spec grade outlet than the el-cheapo hardware-store special. Huge difference in metal to metal contact area eliminates still more points of near-field resistance.
Hope that clears up more of the "mystery"
Regards,
Grant
Shunyata