DIY Speaker wire

I'm very much into (DIY) solid-core wires, in fact I use them exclusively throughout my setup as both power cables(16 awg copper, PE insulated, from the Danish equivalent to 'Home Depot'), speakers cables(Mundorf Silver/gold, ~16 awg, teflon insulated), IC and AES/EBU digital cable(Mundorf Silver/gold, ~24 awg, teflon insulated).

This may be a hotly debated topic, but as a very general rule I find solid-core wires sonically superior to multi-stranded alternatives. With both the copper and silver/gold(99%/1%) wires I've tried out the same positive characteristics shine through, although the Mundorf wires are more open and transparent(i.e. less restrained and more extended) - however also much more expensive, though worth it - than the Home Depot originated copper variants as speaker cables.

As (non-shielded) power cables though the copper wires sound very satisfying to me, and compare favorably to most anything, and much more expensive (multi-stranded) alternatives, particularly where shielded, I've tried. I'd be very interested to experiment with teflon insulated solid-core copper wires as power cables, being that many has mentioned PE is not the most ideal insulator.

With regard to the above claimed "impurities" found in the Home Depot-style solid-core copper wires, I'm sure there's nothing to it. I've read up on this, asked around, and at least here in Denmark the copper quality used in these cables is oxygen free and flat out excellent. There's nothing second grade about them. The typical yapping about from many within the hifi-community about these impurities is unfounded and exposes snobbery, if you ask me(and not least my ears). The problem is these cables are far too cheap to be considered with any serious interest by those who've been indoctrinated by the hierachy of "audiophile" cables and their (marketing proficient) manufacturers.

For speaker cable use I'd recommend trying out no thicker than 16 awg aolid-core copper wires, although very long lengths might benefit from a "beefier" wire.

10awg is about enough area to feed a 5" mid. Thicker wires means lower resistanse = reduced dynamic loss.

be aware that sc copper needs about one hour w. heavy bass-massage to open up, before that it sounds like crap.

I`ve been doing this for decades, taking it all the way out through my system, including custom trafos, diy speakers & cables. No multicore in my system anymore. The result speaks for itself.

Did anyone mention sc powercables ;)

I use 8 gauge multi-stranded silver plated copper wire, teflon insulated. It came from an EBay source selling military and aircraft wiring. My speakers are bi-wired with this stuff and it sounds geat.

I don't much care for the PVC insulation on Nomex house wiring. The copper quality may not be crap, but the PVC insulation is.

Gauge 10 has resistance of 0.001ohm per foot making 10' typical cable (both ways) 20x0.001= 0.020ohm while at the same time inductor in series with the woofer is likely to have 0.1ohm

Modern arc induction furnances are all oxygen free. There haven't been open arc furnaces used for decades now.

But, if you want to buy the label and mystic of dielectrics and the oxygen free label (you can say this if it is, and you DON'T have to say it if it is!) do this;

Buy Belden 1313A cable - 10 AWG stranded (259x34) high-conductivity bare copper conductors, PO insulation (this is the real good stuff). Strip the outer jacket off, its that terrible PVC!) and replace it with PE wire harness wrap. Crimp and solder Cardus spade lugs of your choice. Have a listen. It will cost you next to nothing to build a set one afternoon. Compare all those expensive cables to your darn near free reference before you buy.

I never parted with my bi-amp pair I made for my Quatro's. My frind still has them, too. They blew away his expensive cords.