DIY Speaker wire

I use 8 gauge multi-stranded silver plated copper wire, teflon insulated. It came from an EBay source selling military and aircraft wiring. My speakers are bi-wired with this stuff and it sounds geat.

I don't much care for the PVC insulation on Nomex house wiring. The copper quality may not be crap, but the PVC insulation is.

Gauge 10 has resistance of 0.001ohm per foot making 10' typical cable (both ways) 20x0.001= 0.020ohm while at the same time inductor in series with the woofer is likely to have 0.1ohm

Modern arc induction furnances are all oxygen free. There haven't been open arc furnaces used for decades now.

But, if you want to buy the label and mystic of dielectrics and the oxygen free label (you can say this if it is, and you DON'T have to say it if it is!) do this;

Buy Belden 1313A cable - 10 AWG stranded (259x34) high-conductivity bare copper conductors, PO insulation (this is the real good stuff). Strip the outer jacket off, its that terrible PVC!) and replace it with PE wire harness wrap. Crimp and solder Cardus spade lugs of your choice. Have a listen. It will cost you next to nothing to build a set one afternoon. Compare all those expensive cables to your darn near free reference before you buy.

I never parted with my bi-amp pair I made for my Quatro's. My frind still has them, too. They blew away his expensive cords.

Wondering if anyone has tried the Nanotec-Systems speaker wire? It's available in bulk from the cable company. Read a positive review on 6Moons.

I have tried military wire and it is awesome. I do own expensive specialty cables and the mil-spec wire is every bit as good for very little money. This is however, not just any military wire, but silver plated, twisted pair, braid shielded with the braid silver plated, and teflon wrapped. Lots of military wire is also tin coated and you don't want that. You need to examine the wire code: First look for ML27500 type wire. Second look at the next code lets take A16SB4S22 as an example: ignore the first letter, the next number (16) is the gauge of the wire- look for the lowest number you can find- 22, 18, 16, 12, 10, 8. next, you will see a one or two letter code- (SB) you can ignore this, next you will see a number (4)- this is the number of conductors- look for 2, 4 or 8, multiple conductors are better is better, next is the shielding type (S) S stands for silver, T or V for tin (Booo) look for an S, W, G, $ or K- all are types of silver shielding. The last two letters are the type of jacket. 06, 16, 26 are good. Confused yet? Ok- get double the amount you need, cut in half to make two cables. If you get 4 conductor, twist two conductors together to make your + and two for your - channel. (pair up the same two color stripes on each end- careful!) Do not use connectors, just put the wire directly onto the speakers and amp. Sit back in awe of the upgrade that cost you $30 of mil-spec wire on ebay.