Amp Shutting Down, need help


I have a Cary 7.250 brand new amp that shuts down after 20 seconds in my NYC apartment. I have sent the unit back to Cary where it tests fine. I have tried the unit at my friend’s apartment and his place of work and it works fine. The unit is 100% in working order. After talking to many people I was told to attach a 50' extension cord and low and behold it worked.

The good news is that I have a dedicated 20amp circuit to this outlet. My voltage reads 118 volts and Cary said that is not a problem as the unit will work between 90 and 130 volts. I have tested for voltage on the negative lead to ground and there is no stray voltage. I have also tried the unit on other outlets in the apartment and the same problem occurs.

My mono blocks and all other components work just fine. So I’d love to hear suggestions as to how to get rid of this 50’ extension cord?

Thanks in advance.
sailcappy
Al, thanks for stopping by.

Early on, I've tried to get as much confirmation from the OP regarding his outlet wiring and grounding, and based on his two responses pertaining to his friend's testing/confirming, responded with an assumption that his outlets were grounding directly to metal wall boxes and conduit by design - negating the need for ground wiring - pending local codes (not confirmed by OP). Again, based on his knowledgeable friend's testing, can only "assume" satisfactory measurements were observed on all aspects, and though I still don't have a warm fuzzy, didn’t wish to dwell further.

I also assumed his friend owned the meter, early on, leaving the OP unable to do spontaneous additional testing if requested. Appears he does, and I'd really like *him* to re-check the voltage from the outlet's LINE (smaller slot), to the GROUND pin and report the voltage. He's previously stated there's no stray voltage between the NEUTRAL and GROUND, so I'd like him to check for "resistance" between the outlet's NEUTRAL (larger slot) and GROUND if able.

If all is up-n-up, I assumed his SR conditioner would have taken dealt with any line noise issues, so... (scratching remaining hairs)

Frank
Hi Al,

I hoped you would see my post.

As Metro04 pointed out more than likely the electrical equipment grounding conductor for the branch circuits is the metallic conduit, boxes, and fittings. Back in the 1970s that was acceptable per NEC and more than likely NYC codes. (Problem, years later, was the degradation of electrical continuity integrity from the fittings, connectors, lock nuts, and conduit couplings.

Corrosion for one, = resistance. If we have resistance then a difference of potential can exist from the grounded neutral conductor and the safety equipment grounding conductor at the branch circuit outlet device, the receptacle.

To rule any chance of noise on the safety equipment ground I would think, for test purposes, a ground cheater could be installed on the power cord of the Cary Amp.

What are your thoughts on the magnetic field of the 3rd and 5th harmonic on the relay solenoid of a magnetic breaker? I would think it would distort the actual current passing through the switch/magnetic breaker on the back of the Cary amp.

Harmonics is about the only thing I can think of that causes the Amp's magnetic breaker to trip in the OP's apartment but no where else outside of his apartment.

The fact that the 50' extension cord stops the nuisance tripping is interesting.....

I assumed the cord is coiled up and not laying out in the room. Appearance as well as being a trip hazard.

So, to me, at least two things are at play.
Size of the conductors of the cord.... Impedance....
Cord is coiled up...... inductance.....

Does that filter out harmonics or at least lessen the effect on the magnetic field of the solenoid of the magnetic trip of the breaker?

I asked the OP in a previous post if he was shutting down the Cary Amp by first pushing the power button on the front panel of the Cary putting the Amp in standby before turning off the power switch/breaker on the back of the amp. (Not doing so leaves the amp in the "Active Mode" state.)

The owners manual recommends not shutting off the amp without first putting the amp in standby.

With the problem the OP is having, unique only with his apartment, proper shutdown and power up could just be enough for the breaker to hold.

I would recommend the OP power up the amp with the 50' extension cord power off by putting the amp in "standby" first then turn off the switch/breaker.

Remove the 50' cord and plug the amp directly into the wall receptacle. Wait at least 5 minutes to power up the amp again. (Power supply caps should be bled off by then?)

I would then turn on the switch/breaker and see what happens. Hopefully the 20 second timeline will pass with no breaker trip event.

If the breaker does not trip, fingers crossed, I would not get in any big hurry to push the power button on the front of the amp that starts the sequence to power up the amp in the "Active Mode". Wait at least a few minutes or so.

If the amp does power up I would not power the amp totally down unless going on vacation or in the event of lightning storms. I would just push the power button on the front of the Cary putting the amp in standby.

Does it totally solve the OP's no.... And sad to say he would still need to keep the 50' extension cord. If he has a power outage the amp will be set to "Active Mode" and he will have to use the 50' cord to to reset the amp to standby.
Jim
I assumed his SR conditioner would have dealt with any line noise issues ....
My instinct (based on nothing specific) is to not make that assumption, especially given that detailed design information and quantitative test results appear to be unavailable for that (and most other) conditioners.

The kind of possibility I'm envisioning is that some piece of industrial-type equipment somewhere in the building, or nearby, is putting a significant voltage spike onto the AC, that repeats each cycle, and whose characteristics are such that the conditioner is ineffective against it.

Sailcappy, is there any chance that you can borrow a different conditioner from someone? Also, if by any chance you know someone who has an oscilloscope, and is knowledgeable about how to use it, a good experiment would be to view the AC waveform on it, and set it to trigger at a level a little higher than the nominal peak of the AC waveform (which is around 170 volts). Then see if it triggers, and what it captures if it does trigger.

Best regards,
-- Al
I just spoke with my friend who works for the power company and we agreed on the following:

1. Regardless of the problem with my buildings power we know they will not fix it.
2. It seems to me that some type of power regenerator is needed.
3. What do you recommend that just has one input and one output?
4. Should I go digital or analogue?

Thanks again for all your help!
Jim, I didn't see your last post until just now; sorry. I guess it must have gone up just a few seconds before my last post.

You've offered lots of good thoughts and suggestions. My only further comment is that while I'm not particularly familiar with magnetic breaker characteristics, I'm skeptical that relatively low order harmonics are to blame. The reason I say that, and I could be wrong, is that I doubt that the inductance of a coiled 50 foot extension cord would be significant enough to have much effect at those kinds of frequencies. Keep in mind that the inherent inductance of each individual conductor (hot and neutral) will be significantly reduced by the fact that the other of those conductors is in close proximity. Coiling will increase the inductance, of course, but it will be multiplying an amount that is much less than if just one of the two current-carrying conductors were present in the cord.

So my guess, and as I say I could be wrong, is that as I suggested earlier there is some sort of higher speed transient that is present, that repeats each cycle and that is being reduced by the extension cord's inductance. Or, alternatively, perhaps the capacitance between the safety ground conductor of the extension cord and the other two conductors is providing some sort of filtering action at high frequencies, or is somehow affecting something in the amp by adding capacitance between the chassis and the AC inputs.
08-20-12: Sailcappy
I just spoke with my friend who works for the power company and we agreed on the following:

1. Regardless of the problem with my buildings power we know they will not fix it.
2. It seems to me that some type of power regenerator is needed.
3. What do you recommend that just has one input and one output?
4. Should I go digital or analogue?
Why invest in a power regenerator, and perhaps risk introducing side effects that on occasion have been reported to result from them (such as compromised dynamics), when you already have a solution that appears to work adequately?

And if a regenerator is to be selected, it would seem preferable to first have as good an understanding of the cause of the problem as possible. Meaning, IMO, that the measurements and experiments suggested by me, Frank, and Jim should be addressed first. Such as the simple ground measurements Frank suggested, the comparison I suggested of results with the extension cord coiled and uncoiled, and the suggestions in Jim's last post.

Otherwise we're taking a shot in the dark. Which we may end up taking anyway, but it would be prudent to minimize that likelihood as much as possible.

Regards,
-- Al