Spks. wood veneer is drying out.

Gmood1, You would be better served using an oil/varnish type oil finish like Watco to rejuvenate the original oil finish as it would be closest to what the manufacturer used. The reason you have to use the "lemon oil" as frequently as you do is because it's nothing more than an oily petroleum distillate (no lemon oil at all) and it evaporates rather quickly. With a Watco type finish you'd only have to rejuvenate it every couple of years or so and you'd save time and money.

Jayboard's comments are solid and his suggestion to use tung oil will work nicely too.

Thanks Merganser for your suggestion. Once I finish up with my Scotts, I may try this. FWIW the original oil on the speakers was Tung Oil, it was drying up rapidly after the first 2 months from the original coats. I only use the Scotts once a month ..not because it dries out but because it's quick and easy to use. I have went several months in between coats without any problems. I paid $4.00 and some change for a can.This can should last me almost two years. So cost isn't a major concern.

Jayboard, in response to your question, it's obvious that the veneer is drying out. Not really bad, but I would like to restore its condition. I've never used 100% Tung Oil nor do I know very much about this product. Will it produce a strong smell? Also, will it make the veneer have a lasting slippery/oily condition? I will also consult w/Snell and see what they recommend as well. I really do appreciate all your fine advice. Thanks, Bill.

Kotta, the tung oil doesn't smell too much when it's applied. I'd rather do anything like this with windows open, or in the basement away from living quarters. But the smell is mild compared to something like polyurethane varnish.

Usually, the directions tell you to wipe it on, then, say 5-10 minutes later (before the oil begins to dry) wipe off any excess that doesn't soak into the wood fibers. Natural oils that haven't been treated with drying additives may take a little while to dry, but after sitting overnight, the wood should be dry. The oil will continue to cure for a couple of days, hardening in the wood fibers (something that furniture oils and polishes do not do). It will give the walnut a deep lustre with no oily residue.

And the 100% tung oil isn't absolutely necessary unless you want a purist approach that matches the original finish method. Any good penetrating oil finish (most have synthetic hardening agents mixed in) will do. I think Merganser mentioned Watco Danish Oil finish above.