Boost system performance via isolation?


Hi

I need help.

I found out last year just how important isolating devices can become. I've taken some steps in that direction but feel there may well be a better path than the inexpensive Vibra items. Which for the money surely are worthwhile devices.

In isolating components such as CD player, tubed preamp, and over a hundred pound SS amp. I have a rack from “HE..” (a bit south of Heaven, if that helps).

I do understand the rack itself, plays a big part but I’ve been unable to address that aspect as yet. So I’ve tinkered with it enough so the sound is pretty good now. Using homemade and mainstream products such as Vibra Pods. Currently Vibra-pod cones & pods, as well as doing some ‘layering’. Using a sandwich sort of configuration….

ON each shelf of the rack, from bottom up, I used a piece of ¾” MDF > CONES > ½” particle board (shelf) > Pods > component. Results aren’t bad but i would like to improve upon things, especially with the amp and preamp. Also a 400 disc carosel and a couple lightweight items too such as a DAC and DVD player.

I've done nothing with the amp... just CDP & preamp.

Anyone using something other than ‘Vibra-Pods’ & Vibra-cones, that have seen definite improvements in their system… I would sincerely appreciate hearing from you… and how it changed things… and naturally what those devices are.

I’m not looking to go off for tons of bucks here but would sincerely like to get an idea of who really does make effective isolation devices for components of varying weights andd function… eg., rotating, tubed, SS, etc….

Many thanks
blindjim
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A few very inexpensive tweaks to experiment with that have yielded significant audible improvements for me are:
1) place small hardwood blocks between your Vibrapods and the equipment chassis. Experiment with various hardwoods - maple, teak, walnut, etc. although I've found Zebrawood to be the best for both tube and SS components. Use three wood block/Vibrapod combos per component. You should be able to get 1-2' of hardwood boards inexpensively at a local lumberyard or hardwood specialist that you can cut to size - about 1"x1"x2".
2) Attach Dynamat sound-deadening material under the under the particle board shelf. Also, sometimes called Dead-Mat can be found at auto parts stores and is used for deadening metal vibrations when installing speakers in cars. It is a sheet of tarry material backed with aluminum foil and works as a very effective, inexpensive constrained-layer damping material.
3) Put 3-5 lb weights on each component; I prefer brass but most anything will make a difference and reduce/change component resonance.
4) Finally, if you don't already have spikes on the bottom of your rack, consider adding some. Inexpensive brass cones are available from Parts Express in a variety of sizes.
If you can't get scrap hardwood blocks contact me and I'll send you a few extra I have at no cost.
thanks Tvad &g Jgiacalo, good stuff.

I've one thing that's been bugging me as I've not run across the "Why" of it...

"How come the use of 'three' gizmos instead of four like the feet of the device?"

...and then of course, Where? Leave the feet on the component? (I left the feet on and placed the Vibra thingy's underneath them... the CD however has the cones 90 degrees out from the pods, or like in between the pods and under the half inch particle board shelf).

I've tried both putting the pods right under the feet of the BAT preamps feet, and above the PBS & under the PBS... can't remember just where now as the whole thing is torn apart... (I'm putting in new receptacles onto the dedicated ckts... and I'm running out of bandaids too)

I can't spike this rack. I can and will fill the tubes with something though before the gear gets back onto it.

I'm trying to save space and add mass to the exsisting rack, by combining two metal racks into one... and I do need the space for sure.. ultimately I'll build one this winter.
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I'll second Tvad: 3 vs 4 for stability; contact directly with the chassis - placing under the actual component feet will have negligible effect; ignore the component feet - removing didn't make a difference in my experiments.
Fill the rack with lead rather than sand - seems to work better. You can get lead shot #8, e.g. for about $15/25lbs at a gun shop. Although I've read that powdered iron works best although I have no idea where to get it.
Have fun.