Cheap tweak from Virtual Dynamics:

I'll probably dig out my Utica 6 -30 inlb screwdriver, and try this tweak. My Gemme Audio Tanto speakers do not have grills, and the fronts are black, so the fun part will be blackening the brass screws.

http://www.modelboatyard.com/blackening.html

I would be very careful if you plan to monkey around with your loudspeakers' driver mounting screws. Most higher end speaker manufacturers understand the importance of mounting screws, especially with regards to equal torque and loosening over time. As such, the better manufacturers torque them correctly at the time of assembly and may even add a little thread lock to keep them from loosening away from their original torque.

Some food for thought:
Regarding the higher end loudspeakers, just as strong an argument can be made for leaving well enough alone. Once the screws have been "seated" at the time of assembly, it may not be a good idea to break the screws away from their seated position. The integrity of the screw hole may suffer and you may end up with a connection that always needs adjustment from that point on.

Amen Seasoned.For every 20 happy campers,there's going to 1 who wished he never heard of the word Torque.Those wrenches mentioned will be accurate 1/2 the time if that.But what the hey,boys will be boys.Along those lines,I will ask said people who are tweaking "Where is the most accurate reading on a torque wrench"?Cheers,Bob

USblues - In da middle, and mine is cal'ed by a friend who works in a calibration lab.

Also a good point about messing with $$$$ speakers too. I plan to start with TAD 805. With the Tanto speakers I will walk the torque setting up to see if any turn, and might leave them alone, depending on what I see.