Aftermarket fuse for subwoofers?

Anyone with experience changing their subwoofer(s) fuse(s)? With SR running a 3-for-2 promo this month on their Orange fuse line, which I use everywhere else in my system, I’m curious if there’s anything noticeable to be gained swapping out the OEM’s in my JL Audio e-110’s.

I had Blue first, now Orange. Also have five subs in a DBA.  Clearly they do make a difference. However, not equally as much in everything. The vast majority of the improvement seems to be in opening up detail and dynamics, but not so much the deep bass. A lot of the improvement seems to be due to improved timing and reduced smearing of transients. Exactly the sort of thing you'll be hard pressed to notice with deep bass. Even the power cord used on the subs seems marginal, or at any rate way less obvious than on anything else. Ditto interconnects. So I never even tried them on my sub amps. 

If I was buying right now I would get what was needed for components I thought it would make a difference, and take the bonus as extra. Don't sweat the values. Hate to tell you, they are not accurate anyway. Not even. 
Thanks. Everything else in my system that can take a fuse has an Orange, so if went for the promo there would be one extra that I'd probably sell. I know to go up at least 25% on SR's.
I've got some that are 2x, 3x. For what its worth I would keep for a spare before I'd sell. They will replace if one blows but there's the mail lag and listening to the factory fuse after getting used to Orange is hard.
Consider me a major proponent, having experienced the various subtle, but highly enjoyable improvements in reproduction, that fuse experiments/upgrades have made, in my system.      Though I wouldn’t consider doing without them in my main amps, CDP or phono stage; the Transnova 9505, driving my woofer bins, still has it’s original main and rail fuses.        I did upgrade it’s RCAs, Five-Ways, filter capacitors, install HEXFRED bridges and a Synergistic A/C Master Coupler, but- do not believe changing the fuses would make an audible difference, below 80 Hz.      However: far be it for me, to dissuade you from any experimentation.          I’d suggest you check Parts Connexion’s sale on Hi-Fi Tuning’s Classic Golds, for applicable fuses, first.        If you notice an improvement with those, spend the money for the SRs.      Probably; now that your post has piqued my curiosity, I’ll find myself trying that.

Save your money and put it toward a better sub woofer that will improve things, the fuse BS won’t. Don't listen to the fuser shillers here.

An experiment you can try to prove to yourself to see if you can hear a difference, the normal fuse vs a shorted out fuse (do not leave it like this though, illegal and dangerous)

Cheers George
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Not quite sure why Aunty Fuse decided to show up as the OP made it quite clear in his opener that he is not invited.

(Note: this thread is only for those who accept that fuses make an SQ difference; others, please pass)
But then again after Aunty Fuses deplorable posting last night it is obvious he has no shame or guilt.

Quite right MC,no respectable E.E would even dream of recommending anybody to try that mad scientist trip with a shorted out fuse.

Ergo Aunty Fuse is not a respectable....
Well I will let you guys fill in the blanks.
@millercarbon5 & uberwaltz -- From the standpoint of having a useful thread about the topic raised, I don’t see your posts as any better than his. If you can delete them, please do so. In any case, please leave it to the OP, i.e., me, to handle the situation.
Aunty Fuse will do anything to close a thread on fuses.
Just ignore him.
He won't go away and will become more irate as time passes.
Just ignore him.
He'll provoke, insult and go as low as he can to get a rise out
of you in order to close this thread.
Just ignore him.

Please check back in after you've tried a fuse or two and let us know how it worked out for you.

All the best,
Highstream The fuse in the JL Audio woofers protects the amplifier not the driver. Between that fuse and the driver is a big power supply with enough capacitance to drive that driver into mechanical distortion without stressing the line power at all. The power supply is like a big water reservoir between your house and the water supply. Changing the fuse will not change the way the driver functions at all. JL Audio over builds their power supplies. Hope this helps. Are you having a problem with the woofers?
While I agree that my post does not truly help your threads main point too much, your post does show you have no idea yet as to the depths Aunty Fuse will plumb to scupper ANY aftermarket fuse thread.
However I do accept that my participation will likely drive Aunty Fuse to the point of blowing his Poofel valve so I will graciously accept your request to leave well alone.
Good luck sir with your adventures!
(Note: this thread is only for those who accept that fuses make an SQ difference; others, please pass).
BTW it’s a public forum you can’t ask that.
In other words your asking that no Audio Electronic Engineers can comment on this, (try to get one to back the fusers) good luck getting anyone that has any cred to answer your questions. If you believe anything the fusers offer here, then your as bad as them.
Watch as the worm turns.
With only 15 responses, Aunty Fuse has gone from advising to attacking the OP. That must be a new record.

BTW, being a "public" forum gives no one the right to attack and denigrate. I hate it when the "free speech" trolls take refuge behind a badly misunderstood meme.

Only the federal government is restricted in what they can do to a persons rights with regards to their speech. Hate speech is not protected, especially when done by a troll. Anyone can moderate a forum or a thread they initiated and censor a mean spirited jerk.

It's perfectly legal, and most welcome.

All the best,
With only 15 responses, Aunty Fuse has gone from advising to attacking the OP. That must be a new record.
It's called giving the gullible here the correct story behind fuses which you fusers spruik.
And that can’t even get even one "noted audio design engineer" to confirm your findings with these "snake oil" up to $250 fuses, that are at best just re-badged far cheaper ones.

Also gives Audiogon a chance of not becoming an infested snake oilers audio website.
Why don't you fusers try to post this rubbish up on a site like diyaudio where all the hiend guru designers of the audio industry are, and see how long your views last.
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zealot - someone so convinced they had the right of it that even incontrovertible proof held right under their nose wouldn't convince them otherwise.
I think that the Lightspeed Attenuator preamp is a snake oil product.
That’s a real good way to show your lack of intelligence. But then, you are a fuser after all.

BTW apt forum name you have
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" Fusers are like heroin addicts looking for that bag of H stamped with a smiley face! "
  Boy isn't that the truth!!!
  I like the beeswax impregnated ones the best or maybe ones covered in blackout paint.
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I’m sorry for your son, similar happened to me, but I see what he’s getting at.
Take mahlman comments in the context it was given.

I’ll echo his analogy with this, "this fuse snake oil stuff is like a malignant cancer, very hard to stop" sorry to all the cancer sufferers, I’m sure you didn’t mind my analogy.
Cheers George