Anyone try the replica B-60 Fidelity Research VTA?


My sammle moved not only up an down but also sidewards.
The reason as far as I can judge is the pin on the screw
which connect the inner and the outer collar. The inner collar
slides along this pin up and down but if there is
any play between this pin and the notch of the inner collar
the tonearm will move also sidewards. This means that the
'replica' is not as 'exact' as claimed by the producer.
I assume that this screw is better made by the orginal B-60 .
128x128nandric
mulveling, I was not able to find expression ''gnarly'' in my English
dictionary but assume that you mean ''worn out srews''. Those which
function is to fasten the arm on the collar can be bought as separates.  Also with the right Allen key. The original FR screws have
an plastic piece on their ''nose'' to prefent damage on the aluminum
skale or steel parts. I made those myself and glued on the screws
''nose''. I hope you will be able to fasten your ''old B-60'' firmly this
way. 
For those with the Ikeda base, on the inside of the threaded shaft there is a slot with a pin that rides within that. Does your pin travel the entire length of the slot while using the adjuster knob? Mine goes all the way to the bottom but then only about halfway up the slot. I notice the Ikeda spec says 10mm of adjustment. I don’t think I’m getting that but I’ll measure tonight to be sure. 
I'll get the original Ikeda base in January, hopefully. 
So I can check then. 
I figured it out. If you don’t have the set screws that pinch the tonearm stalk all the way in the adjuster stops. Thought I had them in far enough but didn’t. The first thing I noticed with this part is WHY would you put the set screws in a location where they can hit the adjuster? Also, it’s tight getting a wrench in there and depending on the positioning your set screws they can be covered up which means you have to lower the adjuster to even be able to remove your arm. Oddly, if you look at various pictures of the Ikeda online the set screws don’t seem to always be in the exact same location.

WHY would you put the set screws in a location where they can hit the adjuster?
If you follow the instructions and do them up properly they dont hit the adjuster.

depending on the positioning your set screws they can be covered up which means you have to lower the adjuster to even be able to remove your arm
That’s to accommodate a large variation between turntables in the height of the platter surface relative to the armboard.

You want to set the postion of the pillar shaft such that the arm is parallel to the record when the VTA adjustment is dead centre with the cartridge mounted - this gives you the maximum VTA +- adjustment.