The reproduction B60 has those flat faces on the huge nut that fastens from below, if that’s the part to which you refer. Yes, it’s very handy for tightening but wasn’t so handy for loosening, when recently I wanted to dismount the B60. I couldn’t get a wrench in there, and I was not able to turn it by hand. I therefore decided I could live without ever removing the B60. That’s what you call pragmatism.
Luis, True, the B60 is not required, but I think it does much more than add the convenience of VTA adjustment. Its mass (I think) per se acts as an energy sink for any vibrations that travel through the arm wand to the pivot, and it therefore adds a nice solidity to bass tones. I emphasize that this is an empiric reasoning on my part. I have not proven it. My FR64S is mounted in a B60 which sits in a custom made aluminum arm board on my QL10 (TT101) plinth. The arm board is further bulked up by a second heavy piece of aluminum that bolts up to the bottom of the board using a massive metric bolt. Thus the FR64S is very well anchored in a large mass of alu. (One reason I had difficulty removing the B60; it sits in a tight space.) I copied the concept from my Kenwood L07D.
Luis, True, the B60 is not required, but I think it does much more than add the convenience of VTA adjustment. Its mass (I think) per se acts as an energy sink for any vibrations that travel through the arm wand to the pivot, and it therefore adds a nice solidity to bass tones. I emphasize that this is an empiric reasoning on my part. I have not proven it. My FR64S is mounted in a B60 which sits in a custom made aluminum arm board on my QL10 (TT101) plinth. The arm board is further bulked up by a second heavy piece of aluminum that bolts up to the bottom of the board using a massive metric bolt. Thus the FR64S is very well anchored in a large mass of alu. (One reason I had difficulty removing the B60; it sits in a tight space.) I copied the concept from my Kenwood L07D.