Best DIY power cable. Why not make?

Sorry I’m late to the game - Thanks for the mention(s) guys :-)

Here is a brief history of some things I have tried...

Started with Bulk Furutech FP-3TS762 (10 awg) and FP-314Ag-II (14 awg) cables and Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- these were better than stock power cables

Next - tried DH Labs Power Plus(12 awg) and Encore (14 awg) cables with Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- these were really very close to the performance level of the Furutech cables, but much more affordable

Next - I stripped the wires from a piece of Home Depot 12 gauge extension cord and braided them - attached Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- SURPRISE! - they outperformed both of the above cables

Next - I stripped the wires from the DH Labs and braided them, attached the Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- these outperformed all of the above cables

I then developed the Helix design as detailed on my web site and upgraded the IEC/mains connectors to the Sonar Quest silver plated copper.
http://image99.net/blog/files/be8de0c383c5434907610d6b55049e69-75.html

I use a single wire for the live conductor from either DH Labs or Furutech cables, but a different bulk wire for the ground and neutral conductors - (see my web site).

I use the heavier gauge DH Labs/Furutech conductors for the power components and extension cables and the lighter gauge DH Labs/Furutech conductors for source components.

I promote crimping and soldering spades onto ALL wires because I have found they provide better performance and it adds to the safety aspect of the design. i.e. they will not pull out of the connectors

So - Furutech or DH Labs ?
- I now use DH Labs because there is very little between them when used in the helix design
- I even have one PC that uses the same wire used for the ground and neutral conductors - i.e. stranded Mil Spec 12 AWG Silver Plated Copper Wire, Cryo Treated and it sounds very close to the named brands

Why Sonar Quest IEC/Mains Connectors?
- they are very well made solid copper with a very heavy silver coating - yet to wear off after dozens of insertions
- the pins of the mains plug are very flat - and provide a great connection
- the IEC connectors clamp like a vice - I first plug them into my guitar amp to loosen them a little

What improvements were observed?

I have found that source components show a greater improvement, I suspect because their power supplies are not as "able" as those generally found in power amps.

However, the improvements in my amp - a NAIM 5i MKII integrated amp - was less noticeable at first, but some subtle improvements observed applied more to the fine details of venue acoustics, hall reverberations and imaging.

Other system components: Bluesound Node 2 and Simaudio MOON LP5.3 RS phono stage

Dynamic performance, clarity and imaging are probably the most noticeable improvements across all components

The cables/conductors/connectors on the web site is only one option, so try others brands if you already have some power cables lying around.

Feedback from others that have tried them is very favorable

I have tried some commercial products up to $1500 - they have since all been returned or sold on.

Hope that helps - Steve

@williewonka ,

Thanks for that overview! I’ve been reading the DIY cable threads and followed yours somewhat and meant to respond prior.

A little while back I had an itch to try building my own power cable (just for kicks) to replace my Shunyata Python Helix that powers a Hydra. I also may try it on my SMc Audio amp on which I'm currently running a Grover ZX. I already had two Furutech connectors in house. I saw some Furutech cable on sale at Cable Co. and bought a meter of FP-S55N Alpha-OFC.

My initial question is... the cable (outlet) side of these connectors are slightly smaller compared to the cable’s out jacket. Does one just trim down the outer jacket to fit. (Sounds like a stupid question, but an answer from you would make me feel better). More questions to come.

@slaw - how about....

1. completely remove a piece of the cable's outer jacket, such that you can insert the wires comfortably into the assembled plug
2. cut a piece of heat-shrink that is  long enough to cover the exposed wires into the plug, in addition to about one inch of the outer jacket

That way the wires have some protection
If you can manage two pieces of heat-shrink even better 

I think that would be my preference

It may make the whole process a little easier and perhaps result in a nicer finish.

Regards

@williewonka ,

That makes perfect sense! This is why I came here...if one is in the cable making (mindset), they'll have an easy way of doing things. Hopefully, I too, can be of said mindset soon.

Thanks!