Best DIY power cable. Why not make?

I have had great success making power cords . On eBay I found a vendor selling Oyaide Black Mamba V2 ( 12 gauge ) and Tunami V2 ( 10 gauge ) cables by the meter . The copper used is their 102SSC , the highest purity copper commercially available . It is copper foil shielded with a drain wire which you connect to the ground lug of the input plug . Google Oyaide 102SSC for the full story .

 The Neotech connectors I used are no longer at the vendor I found , but any brand with gold plated copper conductors ( not brass )  at the lowest price you can find will do .

 Commonly used brass has only 16% the conductivity of copper . A good search might read " copper US mains plugs " on eBay . Most connectors will handle the 12 gauge wires, but check closely if you go with the heavier 10 gauge wire as not all take that size . This 102SSC wire has slightly smaller outside diameter than all others due to their unique stranding and will fit more easily into connectors . YMMV

You will want to make the IEC end FIRST, since on the other end you cross the insulated wire to maintain correct polarity ( between hot and return ) and there is more room to do this at the power plug connector than at the IEC plug . Learned the hard way !   Work carefully and insure there is not one loose strand of wire shorting to another ! Get help if you need it .

So for about $650 I made myself 4 power cords, none longer than 3 feet , better than I had any right to have and probably better than many very pricey commercial power cords .
The improvement in sound quality , and especially quietness and impact were unreal .

I have no financial connection to any brand mentioned , I'm only a 70 year old audiophile with military electronics training .

Sorry I’m late to the game - Thanks for the mention(s) guys :-)

Here is a brief history of some things I have tried...

Started with Bulk Furutech FP-3TS762 (10 awg) and FP-314Ag-II (14 awg) cables and Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- these were better than stock power cables

Next - tried DH Labs Power Plus(12 awg) and Encore (14 awg) cables with Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- these were really very close to the performance level of the Furutech cables, but much more affordable

Next - I stripped the wires from a piece of Home Depot 12 gauge extension cord and braided them - attached Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- SURPRISE! - they outperformed both of the above cables

Next - I stripped the wires from the DH Labs and braided them, attached the Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- these outperformed all of the above cables

I then developed the Helix design as detailed on my web site and upgraded the IEC/mains connectors to the Sonar Quest silver plated copper.
http://image99.net/blog/files/be8de0c383c5434907610d6b55049e69-75.html

I use a single wire for the live conductor from either DH Labs or Furutech cables, but a different bulk wire for the ground and neutral conductors - (see my web site).

I use the heavier gauge DH Labs/Furutech conductors for the power components and extension cables and the lighter gauge DH Labs/Furutech conductors for source components.

I promote crimping and soldering spades onto ALL wires because I have found they provide better performance and it adds to the safety aspect of the design. i.e. they will not pull out of the connectors

So - Furutech or DH Labs ?
- I now use DH Labs because there is very little between them when used in the helix design
- I even have one PC that uses the same wire used for the ground and neutral conductors - i.e. stranded Mil Spec 12 AWG Silver Plated Copper Wire, Cryo Treated and it sounds very close to the named brands

Why Sonar Quest IEC/Mains Connectors?
- they are very well made solid copper with a very heavy silver coating - yet to wear off after dozens of insertions
- the pins of the mains plug are very flat - and provide a great connection
- the IEC connectors clamp like a vice - I first plug them into my guitar amp to loosen them a little

What improvements were observed?

I have found that source components show a greater improvement, I suspect because their power supplies are not as "able" as those generally found in power amps.

However, the improvements in my amp - a NAIM 5i MKII integrated amp - was less noticeable at first, but some subtle improvements observed applied more to the fine details of venue acoustics, hall reverberations and imaging.

Other system components: Bluesound Node 2 and Simaudio MOON LP5.3 RS phono stage

Dynamic performance, clarity and imaging are probably the most noticeable improvements across all components

The cables/conductors/connectors on the web site is only one option, so try others brands if you already have some power cables lying around.

Feedback from others that have tried them is very favorable

I have tried some commercial products up to $1500 - they have since all been returned or sold on.

Hope that helps - Steve

@williewonka ,

Thanks for that overview! I’ve been reading the DIY cable threads and followed yours somewhat and meant to respond prior.

A little while back I had an itch to try building my own power cable (just for kicks) to replace my Shunyata Python Helix that powers a Hydra. I also may try it on my SMc Audio amp on which I'm currently running a Grover ZX. I already had two Furutech connectors in house. I saw some Furutech cable on sale at Cable Co. and bought a meter of FP-S55N Alpha-OFC.

My initial question is... the cable (outlet) side of these connectors are slightly smaller compared to the cable’s out jacket. Does one just trim down the outer jacket to fit. (Sounds like a stupid question, but an answer from you would make me feel better). More questions to come.

@slaw - how about....

1. completely remove a piece of the cable's outer jacket, such that you can insert the wires comfortably into the assembled plug
2. cut a piece of heat-shrink that is  long enough to cover the exposed wires into the plug, in addition to about one inch of the outer jacket

That way the wires have some protection
If you can manage two pieces of heat-shrink even better 

I think that would be my preference

It may make the whole process a little easier and perhaps result in a nicer finish.

Regards