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Best Footers for DAC?

In January, I plan to acquire my first standalone DAC and am wondering what to try for footers. I currently have original Stillpoints cones under the CDP which will act as transport and a Symposium shelf under my integrated. 
These work well.

In the past, I've tried and been disappointed by Stillpoints Ultra SS and Ultra Minis, brass footers, Cardas myrtle blocks and Vibropods. Are there any products that work particularly well under DACs ? ? ? ? 

I have yet to decide whether DAC will sit atop transport or on its own shelf, so I'd appreciate suggestions for both scenarios, please. 
stuartk
stuartk OP
2,864 posts
 
Thanks. I will check out the ISO pucks and DiD's. . . I wory that "Hard ceramic balls coupled with stainless steel or aluminum" is a recipe for fatiguing highs, but of course, there's no way to know except through trial and error. I did try Herbies a long time ago-- don't remember what I put them under, but I do recall the resulting tone being veiled. 
randy-11
1,913 posts
 
read Barry Diament's site
yoby
539 posts
 
+1 what folkfreak said !
bdp24's avatar
bdp24
9,816 posts
 

Speaking of Barry Diament, in his discussion on roller bearings, he includes ideas and suggestions on how to make DIY versions. He originally used marbles in wooden egg holders (whatever they are!), and encouraged by the positive results he heard with them (in his audiophile recording studio monitor system, which includes Magneplanar MG3.7's) had some aluminum cups made for him by a local machinist.

In his discussion, Barry explains that the way the bearing works is when confronted by vibrations, the ball bearing microscopically moves within the cup. In addition to providing more stability than a flat surface, the bowl shape of the cup forces the ball bearing to "climb" up the slope of the cup, thereby disposing of the energy of the vibrations as heat. That climb maximizes the effectiveness of the roller bearing, and is therefore preferable to a flat surface, such as a plate.

If one prefers to make his own, a cheap substitute for machined aluminum cups are the concave drawer pulls sold at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Only a coupla bucks each, they can be screwed onto a slab of plywood, MDF, or acrylic, in a trio facing up. Place a small (3/8"-1/2") ball bearing in each, and a hard, smooth piece of something (floor tiles, etc.) on top of them, and you have really effective lateral isolation for a pittance.

For those willing to pay a little more, the best value roller bearings of which I am aware are those offered by Ingress Engineering in Canada. The cheapest, original model is the equal of the excellent Symposium Acoustics Roller Block Jr,, at half their price. Two other models are actually superior to even the higher-priced SA's, machined from higher-grade Alcoa aluminum in a more optimally-shaped (shallower slope) bowl.

geoffkait's avatar
geoffkait
23,365 posts
 
The reason the curved surface is preferred is because the roller bearing will then be capable of isolating the component in two additional rotational directions - ROCK and ROLL. I.e., rotation around the 2 non vertical axes. Obviously, the curved surface also prevents the component from “wandering.” Isolation can be defined as the *ease of motion* in a particular direction. Either curved or flat surfaces provide isolation in the twist direction as well as the horizontal plane. The TWIST direction is the rotational direction around the vertical axis. The only one that’s missing is vertical. That’s where the springs come in. The reason ALL six directions of motion are important is because the Earth surface moves like a carpet being shaken, like a wave. So the entire house is shaking in all 6 directions! This is not rocket science, folks! 🚀
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