I can agree somewhat to larger bass drivers in speakers should add the lower end without a sub but that’s not always the case. My room is smallish, 13 by 15 and my Wilson Watt/Puppies with twin 8” bass drivers can overload the room. When I switch to planar speakers, Quad 63’s or M L CLS’s, I then use a subwoofer with a 12” driver. It’s an older Velodyne but blends very well with planers in my room and fills in the low end just about perfectly. And as others have said, your going to pay big for larger integrated woofers into a speaker, no way around it, larger woofer, larger cabinets, more crossover components. I guess I’m lucky that I don’t have a huge room to fill with sound and don’t really have the need for larger woofers. I would think the OP’s Wilson Sophia’s would have adequate bass slam as most Wilson’s have it in abundance.
Demise of bass quality in Main speakers
When I was shopping for new speakers in addition it became quite clear that modern day main speakers are being made with smaller bass drivers. And to get larger bass drivers you have to go up to alot more expensive models and still they or on the small side.
The Industry came up with a solution for bass challenged main speakers - buy two subwoofers to solve the problems of the modern age main speaker. And subwoofers now being sold in pairs have 8 inch or 10 inch driver sizes, which are still not big enough unless you spend a lot more money.
I bought a subwoofer with a 12 inch driver 20 years ago, thankfully. When I looked at the newer subwoofers the speaker manufacturer told me that he gets many comments stating that the fullness and rumble ability of modern day subwoofers have been substantially diminished, and he agreed. Isn’t this what subwoofers are all about. Why would I need a subwoofer for better define the lower base area. Fortunately I bought very nice main speakers which had a range spec down to 20 Hz and the bass driver size is 8 inches but I had to pay more to get this larger size.
Why do people put up with this? Put larger bass drivers in Main speakers and then you won’t have as many people complaining about Poor bass quality. Doesn’t this make sense?
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The speakers I have are B&W 802 d3 and the subwoofer is B&W ASW2000. This combination serves needs of tighter bass and fullness lower end base, without getting caught up in all the crossover issues. For home theater, I set the crossover to full for the main speakers and let them do their thing for the full range of their capability. A great complement to the subwoofer.
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One of Fender's most popular bass cabinets in the 1970's when I played regularly had two 10" drivers which produced plenty of bass. Now I get the argument that this would not be a direct comparison to high-fidelity speakers, and in particular these were made to fill a fair-size club with bass not a small room with precision sound, but you can have good bass with drivers that aren't 15". |
You make it clear, to get lots of clean bass out of FL/FR speakers is quite expensive. It’s not only the size of the woofer, it is also about the excursion, and the power to control it OUT/IN/STOP. I have 1 of these in my small home theater, self powered, it has a 1,000. watt amp with a serious magnet within. Enough to add Dinosaur Stomp. https://hometheaterhifi.com/volume_4_4/velodynehgs10.html For music, to keep the Main FL and FR affordable, I would add a stereo pair of these or similar: front facing; no ports! Locate them adjacent to your front speakers, adjust the crossover and volume. Low bass starts mono, but the overtones are directional, thus a stereo pair from location of mains. Taking the low bass away from both the speakers and the stereo amp, lets you use a smaller/lighter/less costly amp, easier to locate for remote signals; AND you are setup to try tubes sometime, same advantages as just mentioned. Removing the need to produce low bass from your main speakers lets them do a better job of upper bass: then the cones are not too small, the magnets are not too small, the drivers are no longer trying to do too much! |
My main speakers are Ohm F5 with 12" drivers. Retail is ~ $6K. I paid half that after discounts and trade ins. In my other smaller room I have tiny KEF ls50 metas and a powered sub. Both are well set up and do the job well. What’s best? As usual, it all depends. If you are on a budget and room is not large, KEF ls50 metas + sub(s) are a good way to go. Larger rooms will almost always cost more to cover properly. You will want somewhat larger mains depending on how loud you need to go but other than that, the problem can be solved equally well either way. IT just has to be done right no matter which approach is taken. That is always the case.
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