Does a record player make that much of a difference??
Question for all you Audionerds - in your experience, how much of a difference does one record player make over the next compared with the differences that a cartridge, phone pre-amp, and separate head amp make in the signal chain?
Reason I ask: I just upgraded from a MM cart to a MC cart (Dynavector 20x2-low output). Huge difference - the Dynavector sounds much more alive and detailed compared with the MM. I find my current record player (a Marantz TT16) to be a real pain to work with - I have to manually move the belt on the motor hub to change speeds, and the arm is not very adjustable or easy to do so. But, aside from that, it's not terrible. How much of a difference can I really expect if I upgrade to a better record spinner vs the change I heard from upgrading to a better cart?
My next acquisition is a separate head amp to feed the phono stage.
Thanks for all your insights!
Josh
I just want to clarify, my comments above were related to a novice, and upgrading cartridge 1st. After reaching a level of very good sounding cartridge, AND acquiring alignment tools/skills: it's time to upgrade the TT, and deal with the complications of a new arm, (especially acquiring my preference for a removable headshell, so many TT's come with fixed arms). After than, no longer a novice, and acquiring a successful phono stage, it's back to cartridge refinement. |
I am a big fan of interchangeable headshells, to change my half dozen cartridges, to put a friend’s headshell/cartridge they may bring to hear their cartridge in my system, and in comparison to one of mine or another of theirs. Spinner: I go for direct drive, heavy platter, to maintain speed and weight related to low frequencies. Arm, I want very easy arm height adjustment, (various cartridges are different heights) like my Acos-Lustre GST801,
or my friends long and short Micro Seiki 505s.
here’s the full kit Best bass I ever had was a Thorens TD124,
very heavy platter, very fine machining of bearing, combined with an SME tonearm; and Shure’s V15Vxmr Micro-Ridge with their no longer made beryllium cantilever. The stiffer the cantilever, the better the bass. The speed on the TD124 was a top controlled idler wheel, and a shield that moved, contrilling a magnetic force. Wait for it to warm up first, then, if a party, and more people changed the room temperature, re-adjust with built in strobe. The bearing of the TD124 is very susceptible to vertical movement which is why I traded mine for ............ Next is the issue of a long arm, (check specs, some say 12" but may be 11-1/2" effective. Next is two tonearms, say a MM on one, a MC on the other; or a Stereo on one, a Mono cartridge mounted/aligned ready to switch stereo to mono lp in a second. I went nuts, too much time on my hands during covid, and ended uo with 3 arms I can place all 3 arms while playing, no effective drag, and simply pick an arm/cartridge on my SUT with 3 inputs. You need to adjust volume when comparing.
.............................. Solidity, heavy platter, features make a big difference, that long arm is 12-1/2" effective. I wish it had a removable headshell. |
Well, Vinyl is my primary Source, so... IMO: OP is correct: upgrade cartridge 1st. Anyone wanting to get started with vinyl, I recommend this TT. (I had one for years). If they stick with vinyl, then move up. (what, in what order the OP asks) https://www.audio-technica.com/en-us/at-lp120xusb
It now comes with a VM95 cartridge body, which accepts various interchangeable stylus including Microline or Shibata. https://www.audio-technica.com/en-us/cartridges/line-series/at-vm95-series The cartridge has a threaded body, only needs screws from top without nuts. TT has a built-in optional Phono EQ, so it can go straight to any Line Level Input to start with any preamp with or without built-in Phono Stage. Direct Drive, removable headshell, (useless speed control we are not DJs). I definitely recommend buying the Microline Stylus, easily goes into the cartridge body, no re-alignment needed, no potential misalignment for a novice. It has a lightweight platter, fuzzy platter mat, adjustable feet, nothing special there ...................................................... the VM95 cartridge body specs which relate to imaging are: Channel Separation 23db; Channel Balance 1.5db. If you check MANY expensive cartridges, they do not have better separation or balance, and surprisingly MANY expensive cartridges are Elliptical. Factory Aligned, Upgraded Stylus (no-realignment needed) this TT would sound very good, and I would expect the beginner would stick with Vinyl, IOW, not have a poor experience that Streaming is/was far better which happens to many novices. ......................................... Now, time to move up: 1. Alignment Tools and Cartridge Alignment Skills MUST be acquired, by you, friend, nearby dealer before a cartridge body is changed (MM or MC) 2. The beauty of a cartridges’ sound is separate factor, subjective, but Imaging Capability involves comparable measurements. I would first change the cartridge on this TT to get improved imaging, i.e. wider channel separation and tighter channel balance. I always recommend this as a very good MM moving magnet cartridge to start with ($300). The cartridge/headshell combo gives you a spare headshell which will be advantageous later. https://www.audio-technica.com/en-us/cartridges/type/moving-magnet/vm540ml-h Channel Separation is 28db; Channel Balance is 1.0db. The combination of wider/tighter makes quite a difference when listening to a superior recording. Again, MANY expensive cartridges do not produce as wide or tight imaging. 3. Move up to a Moving Coil Cartridge and Phono Stage for both MC/MM at the same time. NOTE: Most people would upgrade the TT first, however, the sound will be improved to a greater extent by MC Cartridge/Phono Stage with MC/MM capability. Then the MC cartridge and Phono Stage can be used later with any new TT 3a. MC Cartridge: I recommend my choice, AT33PTG/2 as a MC start. https://www.audio-technica.com/en-us/cartridges/type/moving-coil/at33ptg-2 Channel Separation: 30db; Channel Balance: 0.5db. Combined with the advantages of MC technology. I’ve compared it to my half-dozen cartridges, my friend’s cartridges played here, we all prefer it to the others. I’m never moving up to more expensive cartridges. I wore my stylus out, got another new AT33 at half price thru AT’s MC trade-in program. 3b. ANY PHONO STAGE: get return option, this is the most subjective move so far. Keeping it separate allows use with ANY change of equipment, and future upgrading a separate Phono Stage is independent of other equipment. 3c. OPTIONAL SETTINGS for future MC cartridges. Price definitely moves up, it might or might not be important, in my case, I had a MM Phono Stage I loved, so I added a SUT step up transformer with 4 MC optional x factors/impedances and PASS for MM use. 4. Finally: Better TT and Better Arm (OP’s Question). 4a. my recommendation: go for Direct Drive with a heavy base and heavy platter, superior isolation/leveling capability. 4b. Dust Cover. Surprisingly, many high end TT’s come with no dust cover. I cannot imagine having a superior machined Arm without a dust cover, keeps me up at night. 4c. Arm: go for a TT with an arm with removable headshell. This is difficult as so many upgrade TT’s come with Fixed Arms with pre-mounted cartridges (easy until you need to change the cartridge later). 4d.TT without arm, get/mount your own arm: this is beyond the scope of most, but a viable option if you or a friend or nearby dealer have the skills. 4d. Easy Arm Height Adjustment. Another good reason to get a TT without arm. Important IF you will have a few cartridges, their body height varies, a friend might bring a headshell with his cartridge, you might get into Mono LPs, ...... 5. How you gonna keep/clean those LPs? New, Existing Used, new to you Used. Good luck with that, I stick with my manual scrub, frugal and quite successful. |
