Feet for my new home-made rack

I built myself a new audio rack as a quarantine project. You can see it in the first photo on my systems page. The shelves are Baltic birch plywood, and the uprights are clear Douglas fir 2x2s. The shelves are dadoed into the uprights and secured with glue and long framing screws hidden by plugs.  It's pretty rigid, and actually sounds better than the steel-tube-and-particle-board unit it replaced.Total cost was well south of $200, and I had fun (and some frustration) building it.

But—the current feet are some cheap screw-in cones that allow me to level it, and they sit on little saucers to protect the wood floor. I can't really find much by looking around at the usual places, so if anybody has any ideas I'd love to hear them.
BDR Cones are great, support a lot of weight, and only $20ea. Then use springs between components and shelf and you'll be set.
Assuming your TT is still on a wall mount and that you don't have a CD spinner I suspect that you are fine as is as long as the racks's spikes/footers are rigidly secured.

Curious though as to how the shelves are secured/joined to the uprights/legs (my vision isn't that great and I could not tell from the pic).

I use specialty shelves for my TT and CD deck, but my tube amps/preamp do not seem to benefit much, if @ all, from special footers from past experimentation.

Love the look of exposed edge plywood, and its a great looking build, IMO.

This said, I would experiment briefly with spiking the rack directly to the wood floor if possible.

If it doesn't change/better/worsen the sound you will only be left with 4 tiny holes, but then you will know.



Curious though as to how the shelves are secured/joined to the uprights/legs (my vision isn't that great and I could not tell from the pic).

I cut a dado (slot) in the legs where the shelves pass through them, and then ran long screws through the legs into the shelves. The screws were counterbored using a Forstner bit, and the holes were filled with matching Douglas fir cut with a plug cutter.

The exposed plywood stripes pretty much match the nice straight grain on the legs, so I've been very pleased with the appearance as well as the sound. Baltic birch plywood has all the plies (13 in this case) made of relatively high-quality veneer layers, so it's very rigid.

I may try taking the little saucers out from under the current cones, since floor is kinda rustic wood anyway. Thanks for the suggestion.

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Depends on what you're trying to achieve.

Look at the offerings at Herbie's, Parts Express, and suggestions above.

If you already have threaded inserts in the legs, there are several companies that supply different pitches for their cone/spike/foot/etc.

Thanks for the info...

Never used a real wood rack (just experimented with Ikea Lack tables), so curious as to what you find out/decide upon.