The HC Hurricane's are astonishingly good. I appreciate what they bring to the table each time I listen.
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clearthinker"I have nothing to do with 'clearthink' who does not do that.I have only had one handle here which is the current one. If our masters were to exclude me, I would not bother to create another 13 successive handles to get back in. Life's too short and I'm only trying to help everyone clear the haze. This is misleading, totally false and a lie. I have been using the name "clearthink" for years on this site before you ever registered your name which is to just cause confusion and now you attack me on this site the problem is one of your sole creation. |
seeing as i have been a member here for quite some time but am usually quiet about what i say. But I will say this the above arguments have been quite interesting... See i hold a Electrical Engineering degree from Purdue university and happened to work for the power company in northern Indiana just over the boarder from Chicago. for over 40 yrs in the high voltage substation and transmission area
It seems both of you forget at least 4 houses are tied together on a 75kva transformer mounted on a pole which is usually tied to a 12kv line that runs back to the substation with plenty of other transformers on the same circuit that happens to feed to your Main Breaker box so your power coming in is only as clean as what the power company is producing that day along with other items happening I.E. peoples A/C turning on and off all day long So what you do from your breaker panel in your house on the circuit going to you equipment is really all you can effect on the wall outlet that feeds your equipment So no matter what you do, yes you will improve the power feed to your gear but you will be at the mercy of what the power company is providing you with.at that moment in time Thank You Yags😀😀
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Thank your for your support and understanding. Yes I have nothing to do with 'clearthink' who does not do that. I have only had one handle here which is the current one. If our masters were to exclude me, I would not bother to create another 13 successive handles to get back in. Life's too short and I'm only trying to help everyone clear the haze. |
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Thanks. Your power supply looks great to me. As long as you are supplying your amp with enough juice that does the job. Don't overspend for no benefit. My old Krell KSA50 (D'Agostino's first product, mid 80s) used to play on after power down in distorted mode for about 10 seconds. Now, that's a proper power supply. But as you say created by the storage in his amp not by $8,000 six foot lengths of cable terminating 20 miles of supply from the power station/windmill. Clearthinker stand for clear thinking.
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@cleeds : I believe clearthink and clearthinker are two different, legit individuals. I am however sure about "deluded audiophile" dude. I have a list of all his previous usernames (really very easy to spot), the most "prominent" being Audio2Design, Atdavid, Dannad, Roberttdid, and Cindyment. There were a half dozen others he came in with, but they were very short lived, basically created to insult some users, including me. For example, when he was posting as "cindyment" he created a username with my username in it, named "thynamesinnervoice" and posted screenshots of stuff when he was Audio2design. Hilarious! |
@cleeds : Yup. Our "deluded" guy.
.... this is his 13th username in a short period of time. That I know of. Maybe more.
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@clearthinker it would be impossible to confused your intelligent reasoned posts with the self indulgent ignorant drive-by insults of the poster who shares a similar name. Don't worry, they appear to work on a lunar cycle and should go dark shortly. You know what they say about full moons? |
@Clearthinker Thank you for the clarification. I will add, that as a newcomer to this site, and renewing an interest in audio that began in High School, I have an interest in learning more about how these things work. But I have to say that I’m having a hard time separating fact from fiction in most of the threads I read on this site, including this one. About the only thing I’m able to take away from this one is that I need to run 10 AWG solid conductor wire from the wall to my amplifier. And my wall socket should served by a dedicated 10 AWG solid conductor. In every house in which I’ve ever lived, 10 AWG runs were reserved for 240 Volt (pulling from both sides of the service feed) highly resistive heater loads like kitchen ranges, hot water heaters, etc. In the meantime, others tell me I’m probably not using more than 25 watts in my amplifier most of the time. I thought the job of the power supply to filter the power, and all those hulking capacitors to supply the power for transients. When I turn my tube amplifier off, it seems to take forever for music to stop playing, it takes time for all those capacitors to discharge. But what do I know? |
deludedaudiophile"Now I will ask kindly that you stop the drive by insults that are humorous, but also annoying and distracting to the thread."
I think what has happened here is that I have what Americans call "hurt your feelings" but you need to learn, accept, and understand that "feelings" are not really the issue here if you want to converse in the language of science we use data, facts, and statistics to support a position a simple "that's not true" or "I know better" or "it's not supported" is not a proper, effective, meaningful or convincing response. I suggest, recommend, and encourage you to continue your Merit Badges and education and as I may have previously mentioned an internship might also be helpful to you. |
Now @clearthink , in another thread I said I was not an acoustics expert, which I am not, but I said my physics are above average. Significantly above average would be more correct. Now I will ask kindly that you stop the drive by insults that are humorous, but also annoying and distracting to the thread. I am quite certain I grasp the "facts" to a far greater degree than you, and if you would like to challenge your physics knowledge to mine, I am up for it. Formulas at 20 paces? |
@kijanki that is a good point. I am normally dealing on much smaller scales, so don't naturally think of these things. From a pure extracted parasitics view, spacing out the conductors will cause the inductance to go up which will soften power peaks. That may be beneficial for noise. Having an air dielectric will slightly reduce capacitance, but for a power cable, that would be a detriment. The claimed benefit appears to be around reduced dielectric absorption which would be an irrelevant parameter for a power cable, or speaker cable. Back of envelope suggests it would be irrelevant for any cable in audio due to the comparatively low source or load impedances. It has criticality in some electronics, where very high impedances are used. |
Kijanki is right. Consider also, other, reasons why good power cables are beneficial for audio. Lower (contact) resistance for example, quicker rise times when pulling current from the net, less cross-contamination (EMI & RFI) by shielding or by geometry type between components. Sometimes changing one cable can make a difference for another cable in your system. Separation (less noise pickup) can have an effect, don't use sharp bends, cross at 90 degrees. I can also endorse Willie's observations. 10ga solid core is my minimum
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Radiated or induced electrical noise is proportional to area between wires, To lower electrical noise pickup Live and Neutral should be as close as possible. Twisting wires reduces noise pickup further by exposing both wires equally to electric or magnetic fields, it also reduces inductance further. It might seem unimportant for power cables, but LPS current is not a sinewave but short spikes of high amplitude. When amplifier demands 5A - spikes might be in order of 25A or more. Average will be still low, but higher voltage drop during spikes can reduce dynamics. These spikes also produce much higher losses in power transformer - losses in windings (higher rms/average ratio) as well as in core for eddy currents and hysteresis (higher frequency content). Because of that LPS transformers have to be oversized. Of course using 10ga cable will make little difference if home is wired with 12 avg. |
I could provide you a thousand links the earth is flat, and I am sure 100's of thousands more that support things that are wrong. I provided a decisive explanation for why your belief was wrong and how you misinterpreted a technical website to reach the same conclusion. Stranded wire is the primary method by which skin effect is reduced. At low frequency and DC solid has a marginal advantage due to slightly larger conductive cross section. At upper audio frequency's stranded wire will carry more current and heat up less due to reduced skin effect. These are well known and we'll established causes and effects. In terms of noise for audio, that is made up with no supporting evidence. I can't refute made up any more than you can provide evidence to support it. In terms of corrosion this seems valid for bare copper but once a connection is soldered or properly attached to a connector this would go away. There are also wire coatings that don't tarnish. Your key points for cable design all sound important but they are akin to witches brew. There is no basis in them. The helical construction is an inductor. I would not be surprised if adding an inductor to the signal path didn't change the sound. That's not a mystery. |
@deludedaudiophile - There are dozens of sites that all say Solid wire is capable of carrying higher current E.G. From this link... Stranded Wire vs Solid Wire. Which One is Best and Why? (electricaltechnology.org) Advantages of Solid Wire
I Have provided
I guess I'm all out of things to provide. You cleartly have your own views - that's the glory of free speech. I guess we'll just have to Agree to Disagree Regards - Steve |
Please try to stop worrying about power cables. As long as it is thick enough any power cable does the same job as any other. Remember the last 6 feet of cable joining your power outlet to your equipment follows miles (literally) of cabling that you mostly don't own. Your house wiring, the power company fuse (yes all your power has to go through this fuse that you cannot replace), the street wiring back to the 8kV (in the UK) transformer, the supply to that which runs miles probably on pylons, subject to atmospheric and other interference, back to the power station (or windmill). So how can the last 6 feet countervail all of that? |
Light is not the word I was thinking of. I have a term for this, a twist on an old standby. It is highly applicable to audio it seems, but happens often with academic types. I call it,
When you can't put forth a clear and concise argument directly relatable to the topic in discussion to advance your argument, your start throwing out all kinds of technical terms, equations, etc. that sound really impressive, and on the surface seem important. It is often effective on the spot, because refuting it takes time to digest what is being said, but once you do, you realize that nothing about what they said was relevant. That appears to be the case in what I quickly skimmed in the linked articles. It sounds really brilliant, and it would baffle most audiophiles who would think "this guy really knows his stuff". Perhaps he does. However, in the context of our hobby, it is worthless information meant to advance a sale, while not actually providing any relevant basis for even being in the discussion. Case in point, it worked on you. |
I had to consult with an EE but this took about 5 minutes to "debunk", or at least clarify. Here is the key point that you appear to have missed:
That derating had nothing to do with stranding. It has to do with individual insulated wires being used in a cable, not single wires. It would apply to two solid insulated wires or two solid stranded wires equally. Basically your whole premise is founded on incorrect interpretation of a chart. Here is a link he sent w.r.t. the electrical code which mimics your chart approximately. He expect those numbers you linked are from an old electrical code.
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That does not make any sense. From a circuit standpoint, live/neutral, whether you place in the live or neutral makes no difference. There is still an inductor in the circuit loop delivering current. Reading what other technical cable vendors have written, it is best to keep ground and neutral at the same potential. |
@deludedaudiophile - actually my Helix DIY Cables perform extremely well and has been prefered by many people to some of the best commercial cables available, so they will not be going to the car just yet - but thanks for the tip Just for your further edification - the Helix coil is attached to the neutral, so there is no impact to sonic performance.
Here is some light reading pertaining to cable design - it’s a worthwhile read https://www.psaudio.com/article/cables-time-is-of-the-essence-part-1/ Also - here is a link to a table showing the current carrying capacities of solid vs. several different stranded wire options. Regards - Steve |
If you mean that helix @williewonka , you appear to have made an air core inductor. If it does not work out for audio, maybe you can use it for your car?
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No matter how often you repeat something wrong it does not become right. At DC the stranded wire will be within 5% of the solid wire. That is by design. As the frequency goes up you either have inductance which will be the same for both or skin effect. The skin effect will be less for the stranded so it will by any measure be able to handle transients better though being realistic for a power cord they will be the same. That's real physics not the made up stuff you are typing. |
@deludedaudiophile - re:
I’m not talking about the difference in diameter of stranded wire vs solid wire,
Regards - Steve
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@williewonka people believe all kinds of crazy things even that the earth is flat because they trust their senses. How does that work out? Stranded wire same gauge as solid is typically within 5% of the equivalent solid gauge. The don't have the same exact diameter. 5% is not going to make a difference in sound. |
All I can say is that after making hundredas of cables over a 14 year period - each time investigating each of the attributes listed in my previous post and verifying improvements through painstaking observation. - I stand by my words.
Not only that, there are dozens of other members that have tried my recipes and found them to deliver EXACTLY what I had specified they would There are also dozens, if not hundreds of people worldwide that have benefitted from my cable recipies, from Europe, Eastern Europe, Austria, France, Hong Kong, China, Australia, USA, Canada and a few Nordic countries. And that’s just the people I know about. Here’s a link to an active thread where dozens of members have tried my cables
Regards - Steve
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@williewonka , that is pretty much all fake science, even this statement:
Having bought enough wire for experiments, test fixtures, etc. I know to be wrong. Differences between solid and stranded will be perhaps 5%. Regular copper is used for GHz signals. It does not get any more dynamic than that. Please explain how it could be possible that a conductor formulation, suitable for GHz signal conduction, will struggle with the limited bandwidth coming out of my wall socket. Given all the questionable EMI/RFI issues raised, it should be a significant benefit to be "less dynamic". A dielectric discussion for a power cable is at best a fantasy distraction. I am not an EE (okay Physics), but it took me about 5 minutes to discover that the source resistance of my AC plug is typically << 1 ohm. If my power cable is 10nF, that is > 10MHz. My AC cord could be used to transmit AM radio with ease. I don't think you could do the math that this matters in any practical fashion for my speaker cable, or even an interconnect. For power cords? The live and neutral connect together in the transformer or other components in my gear. How does spacing out live and neutral reduce noise? That does not make sense. This is the problem in the audiophile world. Too many people read things without the background to know there is no way it can be true, and then they tell 10 other audiophiles, and so on, and so on.
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@blue_collar_audio_guy - There are a few things that govern the abilities of power cables
So as you can see - to compare power cables based on their thickness is a bit like saying a red cable will perform better than a blue cable.
Unless a person undersrtands the internal structures/materials/geometry of a power cable it is next to impossible to come to a conclusion as to how well a cable might perform. It is quite possible to construct a 14 gaue cable that will perform much better than many 10 gauge cables. So simply adopting to use a 10 gauge cable might not be allowing an amp to perform to the best of its abilties There are few companies that make this information available on their web...
So while many companies do make cables using excellent grade copper - they will not fare as well when compared to the brands mentioned above simply because their insulation and cable geometry is not as advanced.
Hope that helps - Steve |
@carlsbad For the record, I run a dedicated 10 ga wire off a 20 amp breaker to a Furutech wall outlet, into a Furman power conditioner. Off this I run Puritan Ultimate power cables to my equipment. Solid silver interconnects etc.... I never claimed that I don't drink the Kool-Aid.......🤣 As for the sub, I had never owned one and bought it based on the many comments I've seen on sites like this. It brings something to the party my speakers just aren't able to produce. Sometimes too much in fact. Cheers. |
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@carlsbad I would never suggest you run a 26 ga power cord. I was suggesting that 12 ga wire on a 20 amp breaker is probably all the power/current that is required. My entire system draws about 3 amps when playing, regardless of the music. Pretty sure the 20 amp power supply has plenty of instant current should the bass suddenly demand 3.1 amps for a split second? +/- 3 amps total draw when playing loud bass filled jazz. |
This caught my eye. It could have to do with their short term power output of 6,000 watts (claimed). The connectors they use are nothing but simple brass. No fancy materials, no fancy plating, just brass. They seem okay with that. |
In my experience, higher gauge power cables make a difference. Even cheap ones. As it was partially explained in a video posted a few weeks ago- A thicker cable has more copper crystals per linear measure, and therefore more barrier options. So as the electrons wobble in their crystals, there are more boundaries they can bump into- (more options available) to transfer current. It is a faster transfer. Plus, a larger outer surface as well. This is why a thicker cable has more capacity for instantaneous dynamic loads. Which is why you notice improved bass response, bass drivers of course require the most instantaneous power- and improved power availability equals audibly improved performance. Run 10 gauge wiring on your dedicated 20a circuits in your wall. And 10ga cables to your equipment.
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@bigtwin Thanks for posting. That is exactly the simple (and correct as far as it goes) understanding that causes people to buy too small a cable. If you go by your amps power rating, lets say 200 watts, then you need less than 2 amps. An ampacity table will tell you that 26 awg is all you need. Can you imagine a 26 gauge power cord? A small to medium amp would run on it--and sound like crap. In reality, your load is dynamic, not static. You need to be able to change current values very quickly. It isn't the steady state current that sizes your cable. That is the steady state calculation you posted. But if people keep using power cables sized the way you calculated, there will be used amps for sale for the rest of us to buy. Jerry |