Isolation for a table for floors with movement

The stands to own HRS, Stillpoints, Finite Element - a used one on gon now. If you are going for less costly approach Arcici makes two satnds a Reference and Standard that very excellent. Excluding the HRS which is IMHO the best and most expensive stand out there. If you buy an HRS you'll never need to replace it.

For stands others than the HRS, I like adding a 1" slate or a SRA platform to the top on the stand for additional mass loading underneath your TW Acustic Raven. Congratulations, a super table!

Thx for the info.

My MBL 101E speakers are placed on Sistrum platforms.

Are the HRS stands really that good and the answer? They appear to be a ridget design, I wouldn't want to spend all that money and then have to still use on platforms etc.

What you guys think of doing this;

Remove the drywall below on the ceiling and box the joist in with plywood and repair. Then from up stairs remove enough finished flooring material and drill a hole in each joist run and pump in concrete. The joist are 12 inches so I could make it what even.

The joist are on 16 inch centers and my speakers are 6ft from the back wall so I could do say five runs.

thoughts on doing this

From a builders perspective, you are on a road towards disaster with that plan. Concrete is extremely heavy and needs to be engineered and built with steel rebar to be self supporting with a load. This is not the kind of thing you do with wooden joists incorporated
in all probability, your floor is fine since it is already over engineered from what i can tell. Two layers of 3/4 plywood is not normal procedure. If you have I-Joists, they are very rigid also.

Hi Artemus_5 Thx,

yes they are I-Joists and I would have used re-bar etc. in actual fact I would have had a engineer tell me exactly what to do. Forward, I spoke to my friend who is an engineer and there is a way of doing it but other issues could arise down the road so I have decided against doing it.

If you must beef up your floor you could remove the sheetrock below and put new joists between the existing, spanning from bearing wall to bearing wall. This would make for 8" o.c. which should make for great rigidity.
Also, consider that I have a 130-140 lb turntable (Teres) which sits atop a custom mass loaded stand which weighs another 100 lbs or so. This is sitting on a floating wooden floor using 10" joists @ 16" o.c. with a single sheet of 3/4" plywood flooring. I can jump in front of my TT while it is playing with no detrimental action to the TT's performance. However, I do have it braced from beneath. But it is not extreme bracing. Only a few uprights were needed.
Just something to consider