"Musical" subwoofers? Advice please on comparing JL subs


I'm ready to be taught and I'm ready to be schooled. I've never owned a subwoofer and I'm not so hot with the physics of acoustics. I've had my eye on two 10" JL Audio subwoofers, the e110 ($1600) and the f110v2 ($3500). I hope this is a simple question: will the f110v2 be more "musical" than the e110?

Perhaps unnecessary details: I'm leaning into small bookshelf speakers, mini monitors with limited bass, for near-field listening in a small room. I don't want to rock the casbah and rattle the windows; I want to enhance the frequency range from roughly 28hZ to perhaps 90 or 100hZ: the lower notes of the piano, cello, bassoon, double bass, etc. I think I'm asking: will one of those subwoofers produce a more "musical" timbre in that range? Is spending the extra $2000 worth it in terms of acoustic warmth and pleasure? More generally, are some subs more musical than others? Or is that range just too low for the human ear to discern critically? 

I know there are a lot of variables and perhaps my question can't be answered in isolation. If it helps, let's put to the side topics such as room treatments, DSP and DARO, debates about multiple subs, debates about using subwoofers at all, and the difficulties of integration. Let's assume a fast main speaker with limited bass. I'm not going to put a 12" sub in the room. While I'm not going to put four subs in the small room, I would strongly consider putting in two, and it would of course be much more economical to put in two e110s. This, though, would only lead to the same question now doubled: would two f110v2 subs sound more musical than two e110s? Also, I'm sure there are other fine subs out there but I'm not looking for recommendations; if it helps to extrapolate, consider the REL S/510 and T/5i. 

I realize that I may be wildly off with all this, and I know that the best way to find out is to try them out. I'm not at that point yet. I'm simply curious about the "musicality" of different subwoofers. 
northman
Good Morning,

 Back again with my opinions and findings and report of the crow I had for dessert last night!  Well, after pontificating that most of us can not move our subwoofers around the room, I tried exactly that; 
My Carbon Limiteds (or any sub I tried) lived just inboard from my main speakers, perfectly nestled between speakers and my low center equipment rack / wall mounted TV.  A fairly common set up, and esthetically pleasing.  Well, recall my issue with boominess of bass on certain tracks (certain heavy bass frequencies).  My REL Carbon Limiteds have wireless LongBow, but I was not using it as the sub's location was very close to my amps.  So I reconnected the wireless, and began shifting the subs around a bit. (This is one area that an 80lb subwoofer beats a 110 lb subwoofer hands down!). I ended up with one way over in the right hand corner and one way over in the left hand corner of the room, both facing inwards. 

Low and behold!  The reinforced boom at around 30hz was minimized, and the soundstage and airiness was enhanced!  I could not locate the subs with my eyes closed and everything sounded better!
I listened for hours with a smile on my face!  So old dogs can learn, it just takes patience.  My purist mentality is still preserved (no EQ), and I am loving the REL's, which, as many keep saying, completely disappear
when set up (and located) correctly.  My phase switch setting did change
as well by the way.  Also, perhaps the imaging and soundstage benefit from 'less stuff' between the speakers?
Smiling in Maryland...Ken
Just an observation to report in with. I had an early version V4 sub from Axiom which had the switch type phase control. It only offers two or so options for phase alignment. Axiom redesigned it into a fully variable full range phase control in later version V4 amps. Ian did an experimental design amp for the monster EP800 V4 which had a custom response curve in two switchable curves. A normal ’flat’ response curve and one with a neat boost in the middle bass ranges for some real punch. He spent hours in the anechoic chamber developing the curve. He offered to custom build me a new amp for the EP800V4 with the dual response curves and he even engraved the amp panel with two settings; I asked him to do Bourbon Smooth for the flat position and Gin Gut Punch for the boosted ’party’ setting. He got a kick out of that and its what I have on my amp, nicely laser engraved. Here is one thing he also did, he included the new full range phasing control vs. the original switch setting phase I had. I was able to see the results of the phasing now upon installation of the new amp and I can say that it is amazing! a two position switch doesn’t cut it, its useless. When you get down on the floor and fine tune the phasing, you dial it in with just the slightest turn one direction or the other and there it is!  Keep in mind that where it all syncs up varies with the room, the sub placement, how many subs you have, etc.   If you understand what zero beat is with radios; for example zeroing a receiver frequency exactly with Fort Collins WWV, this is pretty much what you do with a variable phase control. Its fast and easy and the subs are in total sync, there is no boomy out of phase difficulty with the bass, especially in odd locations in the room. I think a variable phase is a must have when it comes to sub woofers and I know that Axiom/Bryston has it now on all new subs they offer... the best single change they made.

When I think back to when I got into 'subs' using the large name subs out there (and I tested a few including the Paradigm super monster with some outlandish power and if I recall a 15 inch driver), none of them did anything right for me.  The bass was always just bass, mucky, bland heavy handed bass, often shaking windows or dishes unnecessarily so.  What I have now is silky smooth, powerful musical, wonderful, perfect, BASS.   You don't feel like the bass needs to be adjusted up or down and changed for each track you listen to.  It all plays exactly like the recording engineer meant it to be played, it's perfect.   I think design is critical in subs.  My most beautiful piece is my Bryston Model T sub, this thing stands around 45 inches tall, 10 inches or so wide and 17 inches deep.  It's a slim, tall sexy looking thing in Black Ash wood veneer with triple 8 inch cool looking drivers.   Due to the smaller driver compliment, it really does the mid and upper range bass super well, but it is big on low end output too as it pushes a lot of air.  The EP800 with the dual stacked 12 inch drivers handles the freight trains very well :).   The single 12 inch Driver EP 500 is my sweet spot go to sub, I just love this thing.   They also make an EP600 which is a larger cabinet version of the EP500 and I'd love to test that one out.  Perhaps when I go to a four sub set up !

@northman

I hear you. My room is 12X11, so I know of what you speak. My near field system has two subs. I chose the REL T/7i over the JL simply because I value Class A/B over Class D in an analogue system. If I were digital I might not mind Class D. They are nearly the same price.
People just don't understand that in a small room there is barely enough room for 2 subs let alone 4. With record storage and equipment there is just enough room to walk.

After an in home comparison with an older JL Audio, Velodyne, a REL and their owners, we concluded the F113/A.R.O. and the DD-18 were similar in presentation after their auto optimization. The 13" JL was every bit as full bodied as the 18" to well beyond stupid levels.

The JL's minor shortcomings are that its room optimization is auto only and its XLR only output makes slaving compatibility difficult with their e series and other RCA input equipped subs. Velodyne's Manual EQ allowed for a more customized crossover setting used on all six EQ presets which all have slightly different EQ settings below the crossover region. Remote control made the Velodyne, or any sub, interactive. 

Following the REL setup instructions, which are basically identical to their current flagship product, the $9K Studio III was impossible to properly locate due to the length of its supplied proprietary cable in that room but easily remedied. In comparison it integrated poorly and lacked definition. Its presentation basically added low level pressure. Without a direct in room comparison it could seem musical or preferable.

A manually adjustable Q multi-band parametric filter that can be adjusted to your taste/musicality and match most any speakers crossover region*. Considering a processing subs tonal flexibility, addressing most room issues and the ability to more closely match most any future speaker choice, I find signal processing well worth the extra cost.

Obviously one signal processing subwoofer won't eliminate a rooms nulls and modes just as a basic sub array does not equalize. Most any crawl-test located sub should easily perform its best at the listening position. All the best with your search. 

https://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/jlaudio/951tqlzfvg/FathomV2_MAN.pdf?u=ndijqi https://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/jlaudio/4q4tkbykk5/CR_1_MAN.pdf?u=ndijqi

*Look up the User Interface Manual pages 10-11, Frequency Response Parameters Screen.http://velodyneacoustics.com/pdf/digitaldriveplus/DD+Manual.pdf

https://3634088.app.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=199928&c=3634088&h=13336210fd30bf778...

EQ alone is better than no EQ if it's removing big peaks. This lets the overall sub volume come up.

EQ + optimal placement + bass traps = Glory

I may have mentioned this before, but if your room is rectangular, basic, consider the Room EQ Wizard room simulator as a less back-breaking alternative to locating ideal subwoofer location.