One Cord To Rule Them All


I'm seeking advice for a power cord to go from the wall outlet to my PSA P10 power regenerator. It needs to be 1.5M / 5 ft. and have the ability to pass 600 watts for many hours per day. My current PC is a Pangea AC-9, and my budget is about $200 to $300. The candidates I have so far are: Pangea AC-9 SE Mk ll, Audio Envy Ocean 3, or a PS Audio AC10 (used for about $300). Any thoughts? ... Thanks
koestner
+ 1 on Cullen Cable. The only downside is their product rarely shows up on the used market and there is probably a 3+ week wait if you order something directly from them. I have no experience with Pangea products; but, a friend of mine who works in the audio business was impressed with them based on their price points (most will tell you the same about Cullen Cable).

Based on your budget and browsing the current Audiogon listings, there appear to be intriguing options from: Silnote, Audience, Morrow Audio, Audio Art, Nordost, Synergistic Labs & Acoustic Zen.

Good luck in your search!
@lalitk

+2 to lalit. Those who say you just need X gauge and your all good have never tried other power cords to listen how they effect SQ. I can tell you that the Mega 3 is better than any other PC I've tried. I certainly would not send it back and like I said before, will be buying more. Take the plunge and you'll hear just how good AE power cords are. You have 45 days to send back if you don't like them.
I know you said "power cord" but I’d rather just give you a lot of great info about cables and how to get the best possible sound. Read my entire message to learn...

Firstly, buy a "hospital-grade" power cable cord. Better than standard, cheap, or "reference" power cables. Why? they must be certified to reach a particular standard of operationality.

But why do cables sound slightly different? Inductance, capacitance, and impedance are specs that manufacturers can tinker with. And when they do, the sound invariably changes. (more bass/treble/midrange) they can tweak that. So your "reference cables" are now coloured sounding and useless.

A cable shouldn’t add anything to the sound. Short runs of cable always better if you can.

All you need are interconnects with PCOCC copper - was invented in Japan. The crystal grain structure is actually smoother and more linear than standard copper. Look this up...I’m sure you’re curious now.

PCOCC cables are ideal for connecting components together. But besides that, Furutech speaker wire and the cable that came with your headphones are fine.

No need to spend thousands, or tens of thousands. One really funny event - One of my buddies bought a cable with an "advanced filter" to improve the neutrality of the audio. We opened it up and a combination of foam and superglue were holding it all together.

Once we striped the wire, we found the cheapest and thinnest copper we’d ever seen...and tons of shielding surrounding it to make it appear to be a hefty and "high quality" cable.

But alas, I cannot teach anyone anything. I can only make them think. The worst thing that could happen is when people always go back to what they were doing previously, and failing; then blaming me for trying to help them.
"Thanks to all, except that guy who kept "schooling" me about the watts. :-)"

koestner-

just passing along actual hard fact. I’d like to think everyone here wants to acquire knowledge and maybe pass some.This thread caught my attention since I believe in both the PP and some cable tweakery.

The disappointing thing is no one else came in for the assist to back up the basic electronics 101 facts. That’s more concerning.

Once again, wattage is the product of current and voltage at a load, that’s it. It doesn’t "flow" anywhere. Voltage doesn’t flow either.