As a reference tool in order to test the need for an active preamp, its good to start by a plain carbon logarithmic 50kOhm potentiometer and matching Belden 1800F cheap interconnects (14pf) that you can DIY. If you like most of this nude clean & sharp focused style, but you can't stand seeing the pot at max setting, you can simply replace the logarithmic with a linear potentiometer.
The active pre gives very big bodies to voices and instruments but steals the air around them. Also it spreads the width in a surround style at the expense of clean image focus. The personal taste here determines the path, but its good to investigate your own before buying an active pre.
Me I prefer it this way.
When I need to further boost midrange body, I make footers 5x5 cm (0.3ply/1cork/0.3ply). When I want to dry things up, I add pure graphite rings (chameleon) as footers.
I boost the dynamics with Yarbo SP-7000PW power cords, the detail with vishay naked resistors, the overall flow and liquidity with duelund version 2.0 hook-up wire, mundorf SGO & jupiter copper foil capacitors.
Preserving the timbre of tone with wbt next gen 0708Cu binding posts, and by avoiding the solder when it's possible (eg. by using non- solder RCA plugs, bananas, IEC inlet) and in general I prefer to rolling passive components in the signal path for tuning the sound to my taste.
Adding extra circuits being active or even passive (600 ohm line step-up) as extra signal amplification, allways comes with some extra sonic debris which is a handicap you can't manage to get rid off as long as it stays there.
This apply to mc cartridges also for the need of step-up or active pre-pre.
Another good reason for trying a carbon pot as volume controller before investing to active line preamplifier is: The signal purity it preserves, offers you in such a clean and easy way the true path to upgrade your set-up, you can not fooling your self no more by masking and hiding the problems by changing things only for the difference of sound.
God bless you all.
