@cleeds
I suppose I don't fully understand resistance. Lowered resistance should mean that electrical current can pass without as much hindrance. For example, I can run faster on the open road, than if I tried to run in waist deep water.
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@deadhead1000
If I am not mistaken, you're saying that copper and silver conduct at the same rate of speed, but silver's lowered resistance means it can carry more current than copper? If that's true, then having an 8awg copper wire will deliver more current than a 14awg silver wire? Therefore the only advantage in power would be solely having more conductive material than another cable.
In regards to power path, I have more silver in the path than is common. The house mains are copper, but the outlet is silver. The mains plugs are silver and that cable has a primary silver core (and another conductor that is copper.) Albeit the power distributor is all copper. Then going out is copper all the way through.
I have heard performance increases changing power cables. Interestingly enough, those changes were upgrades to one of the following categories:
1. Gauge size (larger.)
2. Plug quality. Gold plated bronze to gold plated copper.
3. Passive filters.
This will potentially be the first time I have attempted a change that was solely the core conductor.
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@mitch2
I have 45 bottles of different Bourbon, 12 different Rums, 4 Scotches, 5 Irish Wiskeys. I don't need any more booze. ;)
Also, I am solving a power problem: Dynamic Transient Current Delivery.
As stated in my OP, the faster you can fill the capacitor for the amps to draw on, the better the performance.
The best example of this is when I was running Audioengine A2+. Those are tiny and needed far less power. Those were also running on the Palladian. The power main was the Shunyata Research Delta. I felt the sound quality was incredible, except a bit thin because of the size of the drivers. I upgraded to the HD6 with the expectation that it would sound better than the A2+. It was not. In fact, it was flat, non-engaging, and generally blah. All it did was add more bass that I didn't really want. That bass was overpowering all other sound.
I tried changing:
1. ) Main incoming sound cable.
2. ) Internal fuse.
3. ) Room treatment.
4. ) Vibration solutions.
These all made changes to the sound for the better, but not in the amazing way the A2+ was doing. Like an envelopment or bubble of sound that had both clarity and realism. This was still a wall of two dimensional sound. It had better clarity now, and better sound stage, and the bass was becoming more tamed, allowing for more high frequency data to come through. But it just wasn't there. Until...
I upgraded the mains power cable from Shunyata's Delta to the Alpha. I went from 10awg to 8awg. That did it, for the most part. That created the envelopment and engagement I was after. Other tweaks followed and aided in more clarity, but nothing as drastic as changing the power cable.
So, if the other comments are correct, then all I did was add more conductive material to the power path. Which now begs the question if 20 cores of 28awg silver wire individually insulated in Teflon is equal to or better in terms of conductivity than 3 14awg copper bundles insulated in Teflon, but with a filter?
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@mitch2
The 8awg Shunyata power cable runs from the Shunyata Research V16 Power Distributor and the wall socket. The Kimber Kable runs directly to powered speakers.
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@gs5556
That is precisely why a discussion in cable theory won't help. I have already had this disccusion with one electrical engineer who tried to use math to determine what the electrical capabilities were of the 8awg cable vs the powered speaker that was using it and he didn't understand why I needed such a cable. Well, that's because there is always a variance in the spec of any device. Manufacturers will give you the basic cables that guarantee function, but that doesn't mean a more robust cable won't cause the device to perform better.
There are no tools for measuring sound quality except the human ear and that tool is subjective.
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@holmz
I never said there was silver magic, nor did I imply it. That is an erroneous and rather offensive stereotype that I don't appreciate.
I don't deny my lack of knowledge. However, I have decades of experience. You may see that as baseless testimony with no "facts" to back it up, but no one will have those facts.
As to the information you were unable to find:
"Breakthrough Power Cord Technology
Palladian looks significantly different than other high-end power cables. That's because of its breakthrough technology resulting from thousands of hours of research at Kimber's well-equipped laboratory.
Kimber's engineers developed a special SWR (standing wave ratio) enhancement technology, which dampens electrical standing wave reflections. This proprietary technology has permitted the creation of an AC power cable of unmatched clarity, silence and freedom from grain."
A simple google search on "Kimber Palladian Standing Wave Ratio" will find multiple sites with this blurb. Even though it is for an earlier model, the tech never changed, only the look.
And the information regarding dynamic transient current delivery can be found here:
There is no article for how the rectifier and capacitor system worked because that was a discussion I had with technical support at Shunyata Research about their equipment and cables.
If I am wrong, fine, I am wrong. The results are all I care about. No harm in wanting to understand WHY I have those results.
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@holmz
"Though silver wire is roughly 7 percent more conductive than a copper wire of the same length"
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@gareents
No, because no one has still answered the question. It's clear they are unable to answer it because they don't believe cables make a difference. So they attack the question rather than answering it.
Folks like @holmz and yourself see any discussion of cables making a difference as an invitation to shame and belittle.
He hasn't offered any real scientific facts that matter. Talking about 60 vs 120 hz is just name-dropping scientific data that has no bearing on the question.
He completely removed his credibility when he focused on my "7% faster" comment as "magical." So I posted the scientific journal that explained it. I could keep going, but what's the point. It's just an on-going shame-game to you folks.
The reality is, you folks have made up my mind. You don't have the knowledge nor the experience to answer the question.
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@vonhelmholtz
My question isn’t a hypothesis nor does it require faith in "magic" cables. It is based on science, despite the haranguing being heaped on me.
The question can be boiled down to:
Does the lowered resistance of silver improve amp performance over filtered copper?
If one doesn’t believe cables make a difference, need not attempt to answer the question because by default they are unable to.
As for the criticism of word choice on "faster" electrical conductivity, consider this: "Silver is sometimes thought to be the best conductor because its electrons can move faster than other elements—which is attributed to the polarity of crystals and their structure."
Source:
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@czarivey
I disagree. I have seen the most prolific changes in audio by upgrading the power end of the system. Mileage may vary.
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@jea48 Thank you sir! Finally, a reasonable response. If there was an award, you win it. :)
To answer some of your questions. The power cable's geometry will be a total of 20 strands of 28awg solid silver, each 20 separately insulated in Teflon. All braided into a hyper-litz geometry. 7 will go to hot, 7 to neutral and 6 to ground. The braid and insulation is meant to be its "shield." It doesn't have an external mesh like other cables.
This power cable will be coming off a Shunyata Research Venom V16 distributor which uses their Alpha HC cable from the wall. The wall socket is an Audioquest NRG Edison that is housed within Furutech's internal and external socket shield.
This is connecting to a Powered Speaker. The speaker has two single-ended, linear, mono amps. One for left and one for right. The power board and cross over for the right channel is built into the right speaker and its drivers jump directly off that board. The Powered Speaker connects to its Passive brother via a similar cable as the power cable will be. 20 solid silver 28awg each insulated in Teflon and braided in a hyper-litz. The difference will be 10 for the positive (right) and 10 for the negative (left) and using banana plugs instead of an IEC C7 and NEMA 15 Amp plug.
Obviously, the cables jumping off the crossover will be copper. Maybe one day, out of boredom, I will consider buying a few short runs of this same silver wire and change out the internal cables. I have already rolled the OEM fuse for Synergistic Research's Purple fuse.
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@grannyring
Ok, fair enough. The company that makes it surely would have received many complaints by now if it was that bad. Just consider that a copper conductor will have multiple 28awg strands twisted together before it is insulated in Teflon. In this case, each strand is individually encased in Teflon before being braided. There is no strand interaction. I get the concept that it could be brittle, but I don’t plan on moving it around after I plug it in. It will be stationary for many years.
I gave the company my system's specifications before the cable was built. The cable is rated for 100w at 15 amps.
I will be able to tell very quickly if there is a lack of bass as these speakers are overly bassy.
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@grannyring
I will not be building this cable myself. It is being built by Lavricables in their Master line. I would have preferred their Grand line, but they said the C7 plug would not fit three separate bundles. They use a 9% silver solder. I trust their construction. I have three of their cables and they are fantastic. This will be my first power cable from them.
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@czarivey
I will find out in a few weeks whether or not that is true (for me and *this* particular system at this particular location.)
Based on your suggestion, you’re saying that a filtered copper cable will be superior to a braided silver cable? Both these cables use Teflon as the insulating dielectric. The gauges are similar. The copper cable uses three 14awg stranded conductors insulted in Teflon. the geometry is a simple twist, but has a massive filter attached. The silver cable uses twenty 28awg solid silver conductors, each strand is individually insulated in Teflon and braided together in a hyper-litz. It splits out as 7 braided strands for hot, 7 braided strands to neutral and 6 braided strands for ground.
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@gareents "However, that does not obviate the science of conveying electrical current, something which you seem to want to ignore"
If I am ignoring it, it means two things:
1) The concept has not been explained well.
2) The concept does not directly apply to the question.
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@serjio
The length of the cable is 2 meters.
I am not certain what point you are trying to make regarding "Transformers." If you're referring to neighborhood, city, state electrical lines, average citizens generally don't have the power to have those altered or changed. However, if one was super rich, I suppose one could buy anything. ;)
I don't think gun powder vs gasoline is a very good analogy to explain the electric current from copper vs silver. I would say 86 octane vs 93 octane gas would be more appropriate.
I have to be honest. If I listened to everyone's opinions on why getting a particular high end cable won't have a positive impact on my system....I wouldn't have as awesome a system as I have. I have even had manufacturers recommend that I DON'T buy their high end. Yet, when I do so, the effects are incredibly positive. Devices and speakers don't have some built in fail-function that detects better incoming signal and decides to block it, ensuring that no further positive effects are possible beyond X, Y, Z point. Even the most poor device or speaker will perform at its maximum specification with better connections.
I don't have to worry about blowing anything up, thankfully.
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@grannyring
The system this cable will be connected to runs: 150 W peak power total (50 W RMS / 75 W peak per channel), AES
The cable is supposed to be rated for 100 W on a 15 amp wall socket. I have tested the system at full load and it wasn't even pulling 1 amp.
What is the danger you feel will occur? A fire? A short?
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@grannyring
The cable provided by the manufacturer is barely 18awg. It will still be twisted copper strands the thickness of a human hair. The manufacturer didn't believe there was a fire risk with copper strands the thickness of a human hair twisted into an 18awg strand encased in PE. Copper and PE have lower melting points than silver and Teflon. Again, these silver strands are thicker and separately encased in Teflon before they are braided. I am not concerned about a fire risk, not even in the slightest.
My query is about differences in performance, not safety.
Concerning the mixture of various answers in this thread, I feel like they all counter each other. On the one hand, saying that the type of conductive material doesn't matter, but on the other hand saying you need more conductive material. 🤔 Then suggesting cables don't make a difference, but getting a bigger cable is best 😏.
In regards to being careful about cost, the cable I am getting is three times cheaper than the one it's replacing. So nay-sayers should rejoice in my decision 🤑. It just so happens that all the other super-expensive cables I have replaced in my system with this brand have each surpassed their predecessors. Albeit all those cables were Synergistic Research cables. This time it will be Kimber Kable. We will soon see if Kimber's pinnacle product can be bested by a cable some folks think is a fire hazard or snake oil.
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@theaudiomaniac It's amazing how you think you or the posters in this particular thread represent the entire Audiogon community, or audiophile-ism for that matter.
I am not interested in what you or others "think of me." As it doesn't change how my audio system sounds. However, it must be important to you, or you wouldn't bother retorting.
This post, if you bothered to read the original post, is whether or not there is a performance change using a braided, insulated silver power cable versus an insulated and filtered copper cable. I had actually avoided stating what company was making the silver cable. Interesting that you, once again, wrongly assumed something.
Either way, have a good day. ^__^
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@theaudiomaniac
Well, since no one has proven themselves to be true, by backing up their supposed "correct" statements with any form of facts, it is the assumption that one should just "take them at their word." Too bad that use of sarcasm and belittlement ruins ones credibility if one hasn't proven themselves prior. I have no choice but to disregard answers that are marred by needless derision.
I already said I don't deny my lack of knowledge. It is unfortunate that humans see questions as a form of vulnerability and a lack of knowledge a weakness and therefore feel compelled to shame, belittle, harangue, and harass such people. Psychologically, this stems from a self-esteem issue; that is hardly my problem.
Also, cost doesn't always equal quality. If I spent $699 on a pair of Bowers & Wilkins that doesn't suddenly stop the speakers from being "good" or well engineered. I find it entertaining that people have a false notion that lower cost equipment can't possibly sound good because it didn't financially set you back. I take some measure of pride that my system is unique and it sounds just as good as systems 10 times or more the cost. I also couldn't care less if people believe that is true. They don't own this system. They've never heard this system and they will never hear a system like this. In other words, most lack the experience to judge. All they can do is make guesses. Yet folks enjoy ridiculing people who "make guesses" 🤔 Odd level of hypocrisy.
Also, you're making an assumption that Lavricables is incapable of good engineering or haven't tested their products. Sounds like what I would expect from someone who actually doesn't know any better.
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@theaudiomaniac I agree fully, I am the arbiter of what I feel is correct. This is called "discernment."
The safety violations you are claiming, are largely invented. As "regulations" tend to change by region. Also, you haven't provided any form of tangible proof that you are correct. Math is math, but where does it say that your math presents a violation of electric safety. Please post that, so that trust can be established.
Blame trolling for there being a lack of trust by default.
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@theaudiomaniac
"The safety violations are not invented." Of course they are. Electrical safety regulations don't occur naturally, they have to be invented.
"If anyone would like to know what those violations are, feel free to message me. I do not wish to contribute here." <- Code for, "I don't know the answer."
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@cleeds
First of all, all this "math" is making the assumption that what is being used is bare copper wire. Copper wire has a particular rating that requires a set of math to regulate using it for electrical purposes. Once you add insulation, shielding and other materials, that rating changes. Changing the conductor will also impact the math. Those algorithms are *NOT* universal to all applications, materials, regions or devices. Hence why I ignore them.
Until folks start backing up their statements. Such as, what safety regulation(s) is being violated? Even you have failed to do so: " it looks to me that you're using undersized wire here and, yes, that's potentially hazardous." Hazardous how and in what way and who stated this is true or is this more "guessing?"
"I'm not sure why that isn't more clear to you." <- Because no one posting is an actual Electrical Engineer and is unable to provide any source for their statements. These are all ASSUMPTIONS and GUESSES.
I will state this for the last time:
This is SOLID SILVER wire at 28awg. *NOT* multiple, hair-thin, strands twisted together to make 28awg. Yes, that is an important distinction. Also, *EACH* *INDIVIDUAL* strand is insulated in Teflon. First of all, silver has an extremely high melting point (over 900F). So, regardless of my electrical load on a 15 amp plug at 120v that single silver 28awg wire isn't going to melt; even if it is subjected to a constant 15 amp load at full 1800 watts. IN fact, the Teflon jacket has a heat rating of 500F (260C) Therefore, if we all here waxing "scientific" and "math" and "electrical engineering" I could run my speakers on just that one 28awg insulated wire and not start a fire or short anything out. If I am wrong, prove it (spoiler alert, you can't.)
With that said, taking 20 of these silver cables means offloading heat and electric loads. In final, it means you all are incorrect in your assessments, until you can actually prove it. That means not just taking your word. That means going out and finding an algorithm that can determine correct awg needed for 100watts from a 120v US socket using silver wire encased in Teflon (and I wish you the best luck finding it.)
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@grannyring
So sorry, but one can not continue to say the wrong things in different ways and expect to be right. So, yes. I have made up my mind and cannot be persuaded by poor and incorrect explanations; especially when they don't answer my question.
Because, rather than answering the question, you all attacked the question.
In my 30 years experience and my studies in Psychology, when people attack a question rather than answering it, it is because they are displeased at not knowing the answer; so they get defensive. When logic puts them in a corner and they're forced to face their deficiency in that knowledge, they immediately retreat. An example of this last segment is:
"If anyone would like to know what those violations are, feel free to message me. I do not wish to contribute here."
"I think we have all said the same thing in several different ways. The OP has made up his mind. Our attempts to help him understand will never persuade. "
All because no one wants to back up their statements with facts. Likely because, such facts will either prove them wrong, or don't exist.
So...if everyone is giving up, I will concede that no one knew the answer or couldn't find the answer.
Thanks for everyone's attempts.
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@cleeds "It looks like you're right. He keeps asking for "proof" that he's already provided and the math is so simple. He's using a cable that he says is rated at 100 watts, which is .83 amps at 120VAC. Period. His load is apparently just under 1A."
You're taking this out of context. I don't know whether you're doing that on purpose or whether you haven't followed the whole thread. *I* am not questioning whether or not 100 watts running at .83 amps is correct or wrong. *I* am questioning whether or not it is a problem running that on Teflon insulated solid silver.
You're all so busy attacking me, that you can't see that you are all applying algorithms based on copper to silver.
So....I must apologize as I don't see where I need to feel any shame.
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@holmz
You know, it doesn't matter how many times you post in opposition, it doesn't make you any more of an expert on what you're talking about than the previous times you haven't established it. You, as well as others, have failed to provide any accolades or links to any proof that back up your claims. I don't agree with what you're saying because from my education and experience, it doesn't add up to reality. If your position comes from a place of nay-saying that cables cannot and will not make a difference, then you are wasting your time. If you *ARE* coming from a place where cables make a difference, then you need to find some articles written by reliable sources that can prove your stance.
You can assign as many ad hominems against me, and you can gaslight as much as it fulfills your quota, and it won't change my understanding or position until you can prove me wrong beyond just your word. BECAUSE, as previously stated, *YOU* have not established that you are correct, nor have you established a reason why *I* should trust anything you say.
Understand? Feel free to begin picking apart my post and presenting it back to me out of context.
I will receive this dangerous and poorly designed cable on Monday evening. I will replace the Kimber Kable Palladian with this cable. It will burn in for 5 constant days. At that point, I will know if it outperforms the Palladian and I will report back to this thread with those results.
Good day, sir. ^___^
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@twoleftears
Maybe this will help you:
"Silver and copper are the two most conductive metals known to mankind, with gold following behind in third place. The conductivity of silver clocks in at 63 x 10^6 siemens/meter, roughly seven percent higher than the conductivity of annealed copper, which stands at 59 x 10^6 siemens/meter. Measured in ohms, the difference in the resistance (the amount of electricity lost as a current travels from point A to point B through a material) of 24-gauge, 1000-foot-long silver and copper wire is minor. The resistance of the copper wire is a mere 2 ohms higher."
https://sciencing.com/copper-vs-silver-wire-conductivity-5863373.html
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@sevestan Nah, Alex Jones has no clue. However, Giorgio A. Tsoukalos is the one who is always in the know. ;)
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@kellyp
I guess I am done then. The cable arrives on Monday and I have every intention of using it. :D (by the way, no one should be concerned because it isn’t their system. Also, the amp has a fast blowing fuse, so I am also not concerned in the slightest about damaging my speakers or system. I thank everyone in advance for their concerns for my personal and equipment’s safety.)
You’re right, electrons and metals do not care what resistance they encounter. They have no control over their molecular structures. However, circuit boards, capacitors, inductors, resistors, rectifiers, coils, and magnets do care a little bit as they’ll be the ones to make use of all those incoming electrons and someone configured them to care simply because there is an intended and desired end result.
In regards to inductance, it appears to be a specification largely applied to resistance coils in a circuit. Having low resistance will mean that the inductance will be different. Silver has lower resistance than copper. Therefore, inductance will change between the two materials. After all, they can't help it. ;)
I disagree that one can make better cables at home. I know, I have tried. It’s difficult to twist heavier gauge wire in the precise intervals needed to increase conductivity and lower resistance/inductance. You really need precise machinery and tools which if you went and bought, and then bought the materials, you would be out as much money as it would have cost to buy one of similar specification. I suppose the only benefit then is the satisfaction that you made it yourself.
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@theaudiomaniac
Nah, it's more like Monty Python's Flying Circus and this is the argument sketch. You folks are just automatically gainsaying anything I say.
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@holmz @jjss49
I must be very important to you all for you to spend so much of your energy attacking me. Knowing you have absolutely no control over me, must be infuriating.
I find it amusing that you'll spend time rummaging through cable company websites to find information you can use in your attacks or sift through my posts and pick word-choice to focus on, but cannot go online to find links to engineering websites or science websites to back up anything you've said. Gee, I wonder why you won't do that. 🤔
I have provided links to science and engineering websites to back my points. It was interesting that none of you went to THOSE sites to find information to use against me. Instead, you state, "no, you're wrong." Well...if I am wrong, then the science in those articles are wrong, but that isn't who you've levied your ire at is it? I wonder what it is you're afraid of? 🤔
With that said, it is clear that you and others are simple cable deniers who feel threatened by anyone who gives testimony of better performance. I have always wondered why other people buying cables and enjoying the results bothers folks like you. No one has done anything against you, yet you act offended. That you feel compelled to poke fun instead of ignoring it, really speaks to your character.
Thankfully, as I have previously stated, nothing you say will change my sound system or the appreciation of my sound system. In fact, one might wonder what, if anything, you've achieved with all your posts here. It would seem I have robbed you of your time and energy.
Due to your inability to find resources to back your claims, your constant belittlement, attacking Lavricables through me, and adversarial approach to communication, any last remnants of credibility and respect *I* may have had for you, is forever gone.
*golf clap*
Congratulations. Now I have to make a correction. You did actually achieve something with your effort. You've earned my disrespect. As such, I will no longer speak directly to you. I will ignore any further statements you make on this thread and future threads; but by all means, continue your tirade and condemnations unimpeded. If anything, you should continue to be predictable.
I am sure you'll stick around for my results when I have evaluated the cable.
I wish I could say, "nice talking to you." But since you weren't nice, I cannot say that. However, I can say, "good bye."
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@grannyring
You’re making assumptions. You have no experience with a setup like this; none of you have. There is no shop or outlet you can visit to hear a setup like this or to evaluate its performance.
The frequency response is the frequency response. Speakers operate in terms of sensitivity. Such as, X amount of power needed to create Y amount of frequency at Z amount of volume. Speakers don’t have a mechanical or electrical limit on quality. They can have a sound signature. All speakers do is reflect what you give it.
The first problem most of you are unable to comprehend is, you’re applying your experience to a situation to which you have no experience. This means you have to make guesses and assumptions. You try to have confidence that you’re right; but the truth is you simply don’t know. You have no proof.
The second problem about your incorrect assumptions, is the application of the system. I would surmise that most of you have a large room that your system is in. You are trying to fill a large area with sound. That requires a larger system with multiple drivers and larger amps. My system is an application for a small area. It’s NEAR-FIELD. I am sitting directly in front of the speakers.
Thirdly, you don’t like what I am doing so you carry a bias that clouds you from having any form of objective opinion. That is neither proof your opinion is correct nor mine wrong. It’s just an opinion; nothing more.
You believe you speak for the entire community? Who are you to suggest what "Agoners" want? These threads are searchable on Google and Bing. Anyone out there who has questions and want answers can find these threads and read them.
Against your will or your opinion, I am going to post my evaluation of this cable and I will post the answer to my OP question since none of you have been able to do so. There isn’t anything you can do to stop it. All you can do is troll.
Be patient. The cable is currently burning in. Cook your popcorn and get your incendiary, troll comments ready.
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@grannyring
I have owned numerous sound systems. This system is not my only rig. I have a full system with traditional amps, pre-amps, floor speakers, subs, etc. I don't need to upgrade or tweak that system.
Yes, I do experiment. In 30 years I have never once made a "dangerous" decision that ruined or destroyed equipment. And this cable is no different. All your warnings and "math" have proven incorrect. The cable not only powers the speakers just fine, there were no sparks, no blown fuses. The cable and its plugs are cold to the touch. So, no over heated wires either. Now, why is it your very careful and well thought out suggestions failed to come true? It isn't that your math is wrong. Your application *OF* the math was wrong. Sorry, it happens.
But, I am getting ahead of myself. When the cable has completed its 150 hour break in period, I will post the results of whether this cable bested the Kimber Kable. Stay tuned....or tune out. :D
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@westcoastaudiophile
I don't deny that conductors can and will degrade overtime. However, there is an electrical feature called, "Dielectric Bias Field." This is where the insulation becomes more polarized over time by electrical flow. The "break in" period is the time it takes the insulation to becomes fully polarized and no longer impacts electric flow.
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@jea48
"I think you mean Electricians." Yes, one is an "Electrician" but got his degree in Electrical Engineering. The other is a Engineer for BOEING who has a Masters Degree in Materials Engineering and he has had to study electrical engineering because he works on engines.
"The temperature ampacity rating of the wire may change, but not the conductivity of the wire"
Temperature impacts the conductivity of wire. Don’t believe me? By all means heat your bare copper wire to over 192 F and see how effective it is at supplying electricity. 🙄
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@djones51
No. I meant 192F:
"The heat doesn't affect the copper conductors in the wiring. They can handle far higher temperatures than those found in attics. The problem is the plastic insulation and jacketing that surround the wires. These are usually rated to withstand up to 194°F, but temperatures that approach this limit are not recommended."
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@jea48
Voltage drop?
"Voltage drop is the decrease of electrical potential along the path of a current flowing in an electrical circuit. "
How on Earth does that apply to using this cable? Who cares what the formula for Voltage Drop is. That in *NO WAY* applies to anything. Why are you bothering with all this?
Going through that article you posted:
"The best metal conductor of all is pure silver"
"Silver is an even better conductor than copper, but since it is more expensive, it is only used in very small amounts."
Beyond that, I see nothing in that article that backs anything you have said against applying this cable to the equipment it is currently attached to and running with no issues.
Again, I am not sure what you think you're trying to prove, but if your goal is to prove that this cable is unsafe, you're failing; miserably.
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@jew16384 I have called no one names, but you have. Pretty sure you're headed down the road to being banned. Bye.
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You all need to understand something. You have no power to stop me from posting. You don't have the power to stop me from asking questions. I am not at all obligated to believe anything you say if I don't think it is correct.
The only people with that power are the Administrators and Moderators on Audiogon. If they don't like my content they'll remove it, as they have on a number of posts in this thread.
I have an important conclusion coming, this Friday. I will be posting that conclusion whether you appreciate the content or not. There is absolutely no rule that I am violating.
I am not certain what type of individual you are used to harassing, but I won't be intimidated by any of you. So, by all means continue to reveal who you really are in this thread; it will make no difference to me.
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Cable received.
The cable was connected to the system with absolutely no troubles. The system powered on with no issues. I turned the volume to extremely loud levels. No sparks, no fires, no shorts, no blown fuse. I touched the cable and the plugs. Cold to the touch. The mathematical equations and speculations being used to propose that the cable wouldn’t support the system or that it was unsafe did not accurately predict the result.
However, there is a correction that might help explain why. I spoke with Lavricables about the design and it turns out the spec on my cable is different to what is listed on their website. This was a custom design after all. The cable’s source end is C7 (figure 8) so they did not include a ground wire. Therefore, the 20 cores were split into 10 x 10 and not 7x7x6. 10 hot and 10 neutral. This is closer to their Grand Line. Therefore, the overall gauge has changed. Perhaps this is why things didn’t explode. ;)
Within the first couple of minutes of use, the sound was more centered and those sounds were more forward in the sound space. The just-left and just-right of center was very close to the center instead of wider apart. The treble at high volumes does sound a bit tinny.
After over an hour, the micro dynamics are becoming far clearer than ever before. Using an example, Dave Brubeck Take Five album, track “Strange Meadow Lark.” At 2:06, just before the drum symbols and horn are about to kick in, you can hear the drummer about to set up and the horn player pick up the instrument and shift in his seat. I could barely make out those details before, now they’re so loud and clear you cannot not hear it. At present the soundstage image is literally a triangle. With left and right being very rigid and the center sharply forward.
After one day, the tinniness of the highs have settled down. The sound stage has expanded to the far sides and is developing the desired envelope. It has already exceeded many of the capabilities and performance of the previous copper cable. Distant cymbals in songs are no longer truncated. The peel is longer and cascades more realistically.
On the third day (approximately 48 total hours) the sound is very detailed and bright yet seems to be missing some richness, such as some mid-bass. For example, the hollow thud of a kick bass drum before the actual resulting bass note. This will change over time, as this has been my experience from Lavricables before. Certain qualities fade in and out until it finally settles down and the sound signature finally reveals itself. As a side note, one of the downsides to all this detail is that you can now hear the analog hiss in older recordings.
Fourth day, 77th hour. The missing mid-bass is returning. The sound stage has expanded further, creating the desired envelope. The localization of instruments is very precise. The only thing missing at this point, is the level of realism in the vocals that the previous cable had.
Fifth day, 96th hour. The sound quality has now surpassed the previous cable. The realism to the vocals has returned. At this point, the sound signature has been revealed. There will be a few more increases over the next 40-50 hours, but they will be small, incremental increases mostly in sound stage expansion and richness to the sound, especially in the mid-bass and mid-range.
CONCLUSION:
My OP question was:
Does a power cable with 20 separate 28awg solid silver conductors, each insulated in Teflon and woven into a hyper-litz configuration have a performance difference from a power cable using three 14awg copper wire bundles insulated in Teflon in a simple twist, but with a filter.
Answer: Yes. The largest difference is increased clarity of micro-dynamic details and louder representation of those micro-dynamic details.
NOTE: Keep in mind that this is the result on *MY* particular system. Experience may vary.
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