Serious Question About Silver vs Copper Conductivity for Power


Yes, I realize that this topic is going to bring out the sharks, but if I get at least one serious response, it will all be worth it.

I understand that silver conducts 7% faster than copper.  I also understand that using a dielectric insulation like Teflon is best at keeping the wire from overheating, stopping signals entering and stopping signals from leaving the conductor. I understand that a certain amount of math is involved in selected gauge of wire depending largely on how much power the component is going to take, and how much the amperage is (20 or 15).

My question is regarding certain features applied to either silver or copper conductors that may or may not have an advantage over one or the other.

I have the Kimber Kable P14 Palladian.  This uses 14awg copper conductors insulated in Teflon.  Then it adds a massive filter that attempts to mitigate the standing wave ratio to as close to 1:1 as possible. I had Kimber’s Ascent power cable prior.  It’s identical to the Palladian, except the filter. I have heard the difference between using those two cables.  Apparently, mitigating the standing wave ratio lowers the noise floor significantly. However, any filter that chokes the signal and will slow the electrical current.

As I understand it, the amplifier works by opening the rectifier to allow the capacitors to fill with energy that the system will draw from.  Being able to keep the rectifier open and fill the capacitors as fast as possible, reducing lag time, has the effect of creating more realistic and detailed sound.

With that said, changing to a power cable that uses pure silver insulated in Teflon, will ensure that power is delivered potentially faster.  Although, the silver power cable will NOT have a filter.  Therefore the standing wave ratio will not be mitigated and the electrical signal will not be choked either.

So, would the amplifier benefit from faster electrical current or slower, but cleaner electric current?  Since this signal isn’t directly applied to sound, the concepts of “colder” or “warmer” sound should not apply.

Can someone help me out without poking fun at the question?  Additionally, I am not interested in having a cable-theory debate.  If you don’t believe cables make any difference, I will not debate or have discourse on that topic.


 

128x128guakus

I have the direct answer to your question.

I have replaced the Kimber Palladian PK10 (an early version) with my DIY silver power cord, feeding my DAC.

For the change to be an upgrade you need to keep these in mind:

1. keep the total AWG the same or heavier. If you go lighter on the total AWG, then you will loose bass, energy and weight (whether on your amp or DAC, phono.) And yes, even though a DAC or a phono stage draws hardly any current, they still benefit greatly from a very heavy AWG power cord. That's because they will be able to draw instanteneous current, and while this current is little, it will come without resistance.

2. The shorter the silver, the better.

3. Avoid lengths of 0.5m, 1m, 2m, 4m. The 0.5,1,2,4,8m series is the perfect antenna to pick up the worst EMI/RFI offenders. Use in between values such as 0.3m, 0.7m, 1.3m, 1.6m, 3m,....

3. The thinner the silver, the better. Try to use AWG30 or thinner. (Yeah, you will need on the order of 100-200 wires per hot / neutral to get the heavy AWG for a power cord!) Use soft anneal silver. If possible, "DEAD SOFT" 3N silver. The dead soft is more important than being 4N or 5N.

4. You also MAY use heavier AWG silver strands, and even sterling silver (only 92.5% silver content), provided that the wire was drawn 50 years ago (or earlier), and the metal had time to recover from the stress of drawing. I have used 70y old AWG19 sterling silver for my power cord (with total AWG10 for each conductor - hot and neutral, no earth ground), about 12in long. (DAC right next to the outlet.) The wires are run inside PTFE tubing, and the two tubes carrying hot and neutral are not running together, but away from each other. You want air to be the dielectric, as air is the best. The teflon tube only touches a piece of the outermost wires.

5. Burn-in: at the beginning of silver burn-in you will notice that high frequencies go up 6-10dB in level. Then it will stabilize, yet feels as if the volume knob is 4-6dB higher than before (well, in my case, compared to the PK10!!!) Now, it's quite crazy considering I'm talking about a DAC with a fixed output. Yet, that was my observation. It will get through this phase in a few days. Resist the temptation to change your crossover, as the tonal balance will stabilize. The power cord change made my DAC sound WAY, WAY more analogue-like, alive, fleshed-out and balanced. The change was literally a paradigm shift. Low resolution mp3 files have lost their digital feel, they sound almost analogue like. Although with less detail level than a high-rez file, but good enough that I feel zero urge to go for higher res versions. Even YouTube / Netflix sound is absolutely engaging.  

I'm sure I will get tons of harassment for this post. Fair warning: I'm not gonna be able to engage in lengthy debates - lack of time.

If you are intrigued or curious, then try it out and report back.

Cheers, Janos

 

 

@gareents "However, that does not obviate the science of conveying electrical current, something which you seem to want to ignore"

If I am ignoring it, it means two things:

1) The concept has not been explained well.
2) The concept does not directly apply to the question.

@grannyring 

The system this cable will be connected to runs: 150 W peak power total (50 W RMS / 75 W peak per channel), AES

The cable is supposed to be rated for 100 W on a 15 amp wall socket. I have tested the system at full load and it wasn't even pulling 1 amp.

What is the danger you feel will occur?  A fire?  A short?
 

@realworldaudio 

I am not building the cable myself, although I have built my own cable before (three 10awg copper wire using a simple braid, encased in a Flurocarbon heat shrink.  I use it for my sub at present.)

This is being made specially by Lavircables

They are going to have to use Furutech plugs because they don't have an IEC C7 connector.: https://www.lavricables.com/cables/master-20-core-silver-silk-mains-eu-power-cable/

 

If you decide to go with an outer jacket try to avoid materials containing Barium Titanate.

 

DeKay