So done with audiophile fuses

It's your money, spend as you wish, all I know in 3o years none of my gear as blown a fuse with using the fuse what came with it. So why these expensive fuses blows give me concern. I can say that on the DQ 10's then had a fuse, we took the fuse out and just put a wad of copper wire in place of the fuse and the speaker sounded better, but we know better than to leave it there it was a safety hazard. Also, a post should not turn into an attack all the time. Seems this is the Era we been living in If you like $50.00-$200.00 fuses fine its OK for others who tried them and found them lacking and not worth the cost or could not hear much difference if any that is OK too, each to his own. I heard great system 30 years ago with no special power cords, interconnects, or speaker wires, good marketing made this become needed, and yes I hear cables improve the system but when they start asking as much as a car or piece a gear I find pause in that we are talking wire here copper, silver or silver-coated copper. 

Wow! Really, oldhvymec, a peanut or dried TURD in place of a recommended, properly rated fuse is OK if it gets you Better sound. I just went back through all my old notes, the current UBC, NEC and NFPA 70 and nowhere does it say or imply that it is permissible to use a peanut, dried TURD or Anything Else in place of a required fuse or breaker of specific value in a circuit or device designed for such......Jim 

A sparky dried turd does have a certain ‘je ne sais quoi’, doesn’t it? Stinking failure comes to mind (unless the latter were already blown after all this tosh...)

@ antigrunge2  Very Good! :-) :-) :-)

Have to agree with goose on this.  First tried HiFi Tuning Gold on preamp, monoblocks, speakers mid, highs and cd player. Largest impact on Carver monoblocks where general complaint online is no highs and now heard highs. Speakers like wiping windows but nice improvement, preamp also clearer. No impact on Sony ES cd player, but kept fuse.  Then when SR Red deal came, changed monoblocks, cleaner midrange. And tried on home theater system, cleaner on amp. Very large impact detail and dynamics with old Onkyo Dolby ProLogic surround processor. But edgy, took awhile to settle down. Well, saw SR Black deal and tried with B&W home theater speakers and Sony Cd player. B&W blacks still there, and nice detail improvement. BUT, twice black fuse failed due to inrush on Cd player upon turn on.  (SR helpful, dealer not) Learned from blogs with Reds (where I had no problem) and now with Blacks that SR users tend to use higher values as fuse may blow at replacement value. Sony tech people warned against doing this as next level 25% higher than recommended.  So stopped buying any more SR fuses. HiFi tuning fuse in there still for cd player.

Yes, odd that audiophile fuse should work, but often comments ignore material science whether in cables or similarly in a fuse. (Major speaker changes over the years are materials, usually stiffness.) Impurities, grain size, configuration, dielectric all impact cables. Ohno casting with one crystal (amazing), less oxygen has improved cables. Shielding as well since EM everywhere.  Audio signal is not one frequency but very complicated continuously varying frequencies, so testing distortion at one frequency means little. Agree best to do double blind testing, but my surround processor was really obvious change. Why is SR fuse failing, probably because melt characteristics with different material, especially new graphene does not match stock fuse. If users want to risk that, up to them. Do believe likely will get improved sound, but for me, was too risky. Do think while expensive for small wire, audiophile fuses are potentially one of the best tweaks, just variable depending on location. But have not changed anymore after the SR Black failures.

PS Do not want to say SR blacks cannot handle any surges. Have screwed up and had horrible surges go to B&W and blacks still holding. But for some reason did not like the Sony cd player on main system.