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Townsend springy platforms for my Sasha 2s, springs not ISOA GIAS, HRTs for electronics???

I noticed a lot of discussion recently about springs as OPPOSED to spikes, Iso acoustic GIAS or HRT supports. I may be way late to the party, but in tracking this down I discovered the company Townsend. The engineering may be complex but the working concepts are pretty easy to grasp, but do they work?  The company's suggestion was to remove my GIAS under my Sasha 2s and additionally add three platforms for my electronics, two under my ARC REF10 and one for my dCS Bartok. A 5K tweak is a lot but not out of the question. After all when a pair of Cardas interconnects is $4250, 4 to 5K for proper support for five components does not sound unreasonable if they make a significant contribution. Does anyone have experience in what I might expect these products will contribute? The pitch is to buy it all to get the best price, but is there a progressive implementation that makes sense? The company rep suggests replace the GIAS first, then source, preamp then amps. I can't wait to hear from the collective as while spring suspensions have been around forever on turntables, the trend I was aware of has been toward ridged coupling for speakers. Even my old Krell KSA  had factory spikes for the footers. Old dogs CAN learn new tricks if it sounds better!
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gdnrbob
4,450 posts
 
I wouldn’t put spikes on when using those platforms. It is not only less stable, it is redundant as the springs are providing the isolation.
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millercarbon's avatar
millercarbon
12,531 posts
 
I wouldn’t bother with spikes. But if it will bug you not to try them then by all means go for it.

My Moabs are almost as massive. Here’s how I turned it into a relatively easy one man job.

First, measure three corners of each speaker where they stand right now. Cut a piece of paper to match their footprint. Place the paper on the Podium centered L to R and back to where you think you will want it, with a lot more base sticking out in front than in back. Tape the paper to the Podium.

"Walk" the speaker off to one side. Put the Podium where you want the speaker to go. Measure to the corners of the paper to be sure it is exactly where you want it. Now all you have to do is walk the speaker onto the Podium.

Tilt and walk it close as you can get it. Watch the towers! When you’ve gone as far as you can this way, lean it onto the Podium, go around to the other side, and walk it the rest of the way into position. No heavy lifting, it is all a matter of balance and leverage.

If you want to do spikes, do spikes. Then use the same technique to remove them. Tilt the speaker to one side. Place a piece of wood under the raised side, remove the spikes on that side. Tilt and remove the wood, lower the speaker. Repeat on the other side. Leave the paper there to protect the finish on the speaker. Easy peasy.

wokeuptobose's avatar
wokeuptobose OP
133 posts
 
Well, the game is on. I just ordered 2 #3 Podiums for the Sasha 2s, 2 #3 Platforms for the ARC REF10, an extra pod for the power supply box of the REF, and a #2 Platform for the dCS Bartok. I will let everyone know what I hear as I install it in a progressive way. (Not that I'm progressive, I meant in a serial fashion.) I plan to  blame millercarbon if this does not meet every one of my audio wishes. I think others do that, so I'm just going with the flow!
millercarbon's avatar
millercarbon
12,531 posts
 
That is a good plan. Rest assured you can blame me either way. Also you can blame me even for stuff I never came anywhere near! Robert Downey Jr warned me, goes with the territory. So long as you provide your own paint pen I am fine with autographs. Just please no cameras, the Millerazzi are beginning to annoy the neighbors.
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