what is dynamic headroom?


what is dynamic headroom and do i need to worry about it? i am purchasing a used B&K st-3140 amp and after looking at the specs, it has the lowest dynamic headroom of any B&K amp at 1.0dB. how does this affect sound? same thing with dampening factor? the B&K's is 100. what does this mean?
128x128fishcall
The dynamic headroom shows the ability of an amp to handle large power output (loud music) that exceeds normal power requirements for short duration of time without distortion. The link below gives good explanation and example:
http://www.axiomaudio.com/archives/dynamicheadroom.html
The dumping factor shows how output signal is proportionally divided between impedances of the speaker and output impedances of the amp - 100 is very good - it means 1% or less of the signal is lost on the output impedance of the amp.
I hope this helps.
The dynamic headroom bit is very well explained in the link provided by Zoya so I will not repeat it.

Re. Damping factor: Damping factor is defined as the ratio of loud speaker impedance to amplifier output impedance. Nominally & simplistically, 8 Ohms is used for the speaker. So, if your B&K has df=100, it means that the B&K output impedance = 8/100 = 0.08 = 80 milli Ohms. This is pretty good.
B-U-T.......d.f. varies with frequency!!! So, in your B&K specs does it say d.f.=100 @ what freq??? Usually lesser amps have poorer d.f. as the freq. rises 'cuz they were too cheap to design a robust power supply!! This of course keeps cost of the amp down. Really hi-end amps have high d.f. across the audio band but then they are very heavy (power supply) & they cost much, much more.
What d.f. really does is that it controls or DAMPS the woofer driver in the speaker. By the amp presenting a very low impedance to the woofer driver, the amp provides a near short-circuit path to ground for the woofer back EMF. This allows the woofer driver to stop its pistonic motion after the bass note(s) go away in the music signal. We perceive this as tight, articulate & fast bass. When the d.f. is low (like in many tube amps) we feel that the bass is wooly, slow & boomy.
So, 100 would be a very good # if it is across the audio band ( tho I doubt it for B&K!).
FWIW. IMHO.
Actually Bombaywalla, there is such a thing as having too high a damping factor as well as too low - one is overdamped, the other underdamped. The ideal damping factor would be what is called the "critical damping factor", but allowing for a deviation of about half the value around the critical point usually won't cause much difference. I think that for most speaker systems, this "critical" point probably occurs between a DF of 10 to 100 or so (if it's a lot higher, then the speaker was an underdamped design to begin with), so most amps, even most tube amps (excepting low- or no-feedback single-ended designs), should possess a sufficiently high damping factor to control the woofer well on any speaker having a reasonable bass impedance minimum. I have always found that the overdamped bass sound that results with certain SS amps having DF's in the hundreds or thousands is less pleasant on the ears than the more moderate damping that results with amps having DF's in the <100 range. Of course, there is another benefit to an amp's having a relatively low output impedance, namely the reduction of amplitude response deviations caused by the speaker's impedance curve varying with frequency. But since amps with very low output impedances (and thus very high damping factors) typically achieve those specs through the heavy application of global negative feedback in the circuit, I feel there is still often a sonic price to be paid in terms of transient and harmonic purity when engineering for lowest output impedance as opposed to allowing for a bit of response modification, dependent on the speaker used, with a moderate negative feedback design. (Remember, all of this is a separate issue from the question of adequate current supply to meet low-impedance high-volume bass demand.) And like you say, FWIW, IMHO, YMMV, etc...

Fishcall, it is good to bear in mind that between a higher-powered and a lower-powered amp, the more powerful amp may spec out with less dynamic headroom beyond its rated RMS power limits, but still actually be capable of deliving more power on dynamic peaks precisely because those limits are much higher to begin with. On the other hand, you could look at an amp featuring a small headroom margin as being designed with a skimpy power supply for its rated output. It can all be kind of arbitrary anyhow, since manufacturers can manipulate rated power and distortion figures to be conservative or liberal, and besides those numbers aren't arrived at by playing an actual music signal into actual loudspeakers, and may not take into account the fashion in which a given amp approaches clipping. But in any case, it's most important to make sure you get an amp having adequate power reserves to more than comfortably drive your particular speakers, in your size of room, playing your types of music at your preferred volumes, and then you won't have to worry about rated headroom specs.
Don't worry about the dynamic head room spec - a lot of ss amps have a value less than 1.0, including the big ticket ones. This value can be relatively meaningless if the duration of the extra power is not specified.

As far as damping factor is concerned, a ratio of speaker impedance to total output impedance greater than 10 will adequately control most cone drivers. The speaker cable impedance has to be added to the amp output impedance for the total impedance. An amp with a low DF and long, capacitive speaker cables is the only reason to look at the DF if it's less than 50 or so, IMO.

Alone, neither one of these specs will tell you very much about how the amp will sound in your system and room.