Building Amp Stands


I was fortunate to find a plank of 2 inch thick purple heartwood, which I then had cut into two pieces to be used for amp stands for a pair of Atma-sphere M-60 mk2.2 monoblocks. Currently, each amp is sitting atop of a set of Aurios 1.0's, which, in turn, sit atop of a Syposium shelf which rests on a carpeted floor.

I want to put a set of 3 spiked brass feet on the bottom of each piece of heartwood, placing the Symposium shelf/Aurios atop of the spiked heartwood stand.

I've seen large brass spikes which attach to the bottom of the amp stands via adhesive pads (Focal Points, Revelation Audio Points). How would this method of attachment compare with drilling and tapping a threaded sleeve to secure the feet? Even though a professional woodworking shop would do the drilling and tapping, purple heartwood is a BEAR to work with, with the remote chance of cracking the wood, and the increased cost for the shop's services.
fatparrot
Fatparrot,

I am using Star Sound's Audio Points which I had them tap for me at 5/8-11. I have a set of three I could sell you if you need any.

Drill 5/8" holes where you want the points to go, purchase a 1 ft. long 5/8-11" threaded rod from Home Depot for about $3 and cut it to smaller appropriate lengths, then use on the top 5/8-11 nuts with a 5/8" washers thru the wood with the point fastened on the underside of the heartwood.

If you were to go this route, you might also consider purchasing some smaller Audio Points to go underneath your amps as well. That is the only way I know to obtain the full affects of coupling.

Heartwood is an interesting wood and it would be interesting to know how you think it may affect your sonics.

-IMO
Following up on Stehno's suggestion... it would be cleaner look if you counterbored down from the top to recess the fastening nut to give a flush "finished" appearance from the top. Another option would be to do all the work from the bottom by drilling an appropriate size counterbore from the bottom, epoxy your fastening nut in the counterbore, then buy Audiopoints with a threaded stud and screw them in. A third option would be to to buy what are called threaded inserts which are fastening hardware that have wood threads on the outside and machine threads on the inside. Drill your three holes from the bottom, screw in these threaded inserts, then screw your audiopoints into those. You have many options. E-mail me for specific sources of hardware.
I second Stehno's post. A friend made a heartwood stand for his stereo and it looked and sounded excellent. I believe Audiopoint has a kit with prethreaded spikes and with threaded sleeves made up just for this purpose. I used some on my Maggies and they were simple to install and sounded great. You could follow their directions and do it yourself if you have a drill press.
I don't believe securing the cones to the hardwood shelf would produce any sonic benefit. If you can find 4 pieces of the wood consider configuring them like a Machina Dynamica Promethean Base. I use these under my M-60's, the resolution increase is immediately apparent. I highly recommend them as amp stands for the M-60.

Machina Dynamica Website

BTW, the Promethean's use DH Cones, all of which are unthreaded.
I'd go with threaded spikes if for no other reason than the ability to level your stand. Being concerned about splitting, I would think you would want a small diameter tap, like 1/4".