Following up on Stehno's suggestion... it would be cleaner look if you counterbored down from the top to recess the fastening nut to give a flush "finished" appearance from the top. Another option would be to do all the work from the bottom by drilling an appropriate size counterbore from the bottom, epoxy your fastening nut in the counterbore, then buy Audiopoints with a threaded stud and screw them in. A third option would be to to buy what are called threaded inserts which are fastening hardware that have wood threads on the outside and machine threads on the inside. Drill your three holes from the bottom, screw in these threaded inserts, then screw your audiopoints into those. You have many options. E-mail me for specific sources of hardware.
Building Amp Stands
I was fortunate to find a plank of 2 inch thick purple heartwood, which I then had cut into two pieces to be used for amp stands for a pair of Atma-sphere M-60 mk2.2 monoblocks. Currently, each amp is sitting atop of a set of Aurios 1.0's, which, in turn, sit atop of a Syposium shelf which rests on a carpeted floor.
I want to put a set of 3 spiked brass feet on the bottom of each piece of heartwood, placing the Symposium shelf/Aurios atop of the spiked heartwood stand.
I've seen large brass spikes which attach to the bottom of the amp stands via adhesive pads (Focal Points, Revelation Audio Points). How would this method of attachment compare with drilling and tapping a threaded sleeve to secure the feet? Even though a professional woodworking shop would do the drilling and tapping, purple heartwood is a BEAR to work with, with the remote chance of cracking the wood, and the increased cost for the shop's services.
I want to put a set of 3 spiked brass feet on the bottom of each piece of heartwood, placing the Symposium shelf/Aurios atop of the spiked heartwood stand.
I've seen large brass spikes which attach to the bottom of the amp stands via adhesive pads (Focal Points, Revelation Audio Points). How would this method of attachment compare with drilling and tapping a threaded sleeve to secure the feet? Even though a professional woodworking shop would do the drilling and tapping, purple heartwood is a BEAR to work with, with the remote chance of cracking the wood, and the increased cost for the shop's services.
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- 14 posts total
I second Stehno's post. A friend made a heartwood stand for his stereo and it looked and sounded excellent. I believe Audiopoint has a kit with prethreaded spikes and with threaded sleeves made up just for this purpose. I used some on my Maggies and they were simple to install and sounded great. You could follow their directions and do it yourself if you have a drill press. |
I don't believe securing the cones to the hardwood shelf would produce any sonic benefit. If you can find 4 pieces of the wood consider configuring them like a Machina Dynamica Promethean Base. I use these under my M-60's, the resolution increase is immediately apparent. I highly recommend them as amp stands for the M-60. Machina Dynamica Website BTW, the Promethean's use DH Cones, all of which are unthreaded. |
- 14 posts total