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Virtually free system upgrade?

I had a recent experience that I want to share with my fellow (and lady :-) ) Audiogoners. I added a Hsu VTF-3 subwoofer to my system a couple of months ago. It came with a test tone CD and correction factors for using a Rat Shack sound level meter with it to check the freq. response of the bass. On nearly every bass tone, I heard stuff rattling or buzzing, and I realized that I could not get accurate measurements with the extraneous noises. By banging my fist on the walls where the noises originated, I found and quieted a picture frame and window screens that were rattling, found the sheetrock on one wall rattled at 20 Hertz (nothing I can do about it unless I want to shoot screws, spackle and paint the whole room, which I don't), but I found the major problem to be the baseboard heaters along the wall behind the speakers/sub. I spent over an hour working on the b'boards and got 'em MUCH quieter. I wasn't in the mood to take measurements at that point, so I put my CD changer on random play for background music, but before I could leave the room I realized the sound was much better, and not just the bass. A certain overhangy quality in the bass (a sound I used to think was inherent to Hsu's subs) was completely gone (I detest the constipated bass most reviewers seem to crave, but sloppy bass sucks, too!) and the bass sounded much cleaner, but the real surprise was that the attack and clarity of EVERYTHING (including xylophones and cymbals) improved radically, too.
I'm still trying to get the measure of the extent of the improvements a week later. I've come to realize that the baseboards were causing problems long before I got the sub (I confirmed this by turning off the sub and noting the improvements over what the system had sounded like before getting the sub), and in most, if not all, of my previous systems. Try it for yourself. I used toothpicks, piece of rubber and pliers to quiet the baseboards. I wedged the toothpicks between the vane that opens or closes to control the heat and the hinges for it, and used the rubber and pliers on the baseboard covers and their attachment points. I'll probably redo it with self-adhesive foam (it's a pain in the butt when the rubber falls out).

If anybody tries this, post the results here.
128x128alrau1
jayctoy's avatar
jayctoy
4,127 posts
 
Ozfly, you were right, when my Andra,were in my living
room,my floorborad was acting the third speaker, I
did not notice it, until I transfer them back to my family
room,concrete below with tar on top.Thank you
for bringing this topic.I totally, totally, agree
on this.The diffrrence is huge.
ozfly
887 posts
 
Alrau, I meant to say the baseboard rather than the floorboard, but either could wreck things as Jayctoy attests. Large solid surfaces that resonate with the music can wreck havoc.

I heard a Bosendorfer speaker not too long ago during a private audition. It had a solid wood side that was allowed to move and was designed to act as the woofer. It worked (though quite honestly, I've heard better low end in most other speakers). Moving wood does act as a speaker.

Alrau, good thinking to add the joists. I redesigned my flooring support to overkill the loading as well. I'm glad things are working out for you now.
donshoemaker
38 posts
 
If you think all that is bad,try mounting a couple of 15 inch JBL woofers right in your rec room wall (infinite baffle)!If you want to hear true one note cancelled bass listen to how much louder they are upstairs than down!
darrylhifi
498 posts
 
Absolutely. I have done this using a very low tone on the sub , with all other amplification off to identify what is rattling , and yes the baseboard heat, pictures on the wall, cd racks , vases . Definetly worthwhile.
sfabisch
2 posts
 
I'm a heating contractor and familiar with "buzzing" baseboard; there are a couple of alternatives available. One would be switching to cast iron baseboard, which is very non-resonant, but also much more expensive than regular copper and tin b/board. The other alternative would be to add under floor heat to the room and eliminate the baseboard altogether. There are relatively inexpensive ways to do this, using your current boiler. If you have access to the floor joists under that room it is very simple; you can utilize your current 180 degree (+/-) boiler water without getting a hotfoot. A good hydronic heating contractor in your area could help you out, and much nicer heat, too.
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