How do I get good sounding, clean electricity?

I would not limit to only two dedicated lines. The amplifiers, whether or not biamping for the front speakers might need 2 circuits alone. And with an HT setup, there are even more amplifiers to deal with. I would say at least two 30A circuits for any high current drawing amps and another two 20A for the remainder of amps and preamp/sources and one more for ancilliary electrical needs such as lights. It sounds like a lot, but now's the time to do it.

A member here, MikeLavigne, did a most impressive write-up on the work he went through to build a dedicated room. A big part of this was the electrical so he would be a very good source of hands-on experience as to what works and does not. And another member, AlbertPorter, has shared much of his experiences here on this topic.

Dedicated circuits -- the more the merrier. I would install at least four. One 15 amp for your digital gear, two 20 amps for your amps and one more 15 amp for other gear. There is a way to do AC filtering at the breaker box -- check the archives. Make absolutely sure they are properly grounded -- you'll be very glad you did.

This can be a very pricey endeavor, but one that is well worth the $$. You're on the right track as far as recommedations go. Dedicated lines first. At least two. Certainly, the more the merrier, but two will be very cool. Live we that awhile. Then get yourself an excellent power conditioner. I use Audio Magic, but Sound Application, Shunyata Hydra are both excellent choices. Now, you're almost done. Live and listen to your new electric. Then, get yourself some nice power cords. Go with the best from power conditioner to component. Dedicated outlets to power conditioner cords; you don't have to go gaga over, but, still, should be excellent. Now you know what you got? Electric nirvana. Now pray your system can deliver the goods..peace, warren

Here are some links I've noted for when I attempt my own AC project -

>http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?fcabl&1100220439&openflup&73&4#73


http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr_memb.pl?actghtech&1&listflup&zzSean

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1051595901&openusid&zzSean&4&5#Sean

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1097628057&read&keyw&zzisolation+transformer+ebay

http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/general/messages/355063.html

Research xentek or topaz isolation transformers. Also maybe twist the in-wall wiring every meter to help with RF rejection? Also research into "balanced power."

http://home.comcast.net/~thomasw_2/

http://www.htguide.com/forum/archive/index.php4/t-3584

ThomasW
We're going to use a chassis (p/n 14-19103x) from Par-Metal (http://www.par-metal.com)

http://www.par-metal.com/10s01.jpg

Here's a pic of the transformer

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_10_3/images/plitron-isolation-transformer-front-main.jpg

Here are a couple of links to tech papers detailing balanced power for those interested

http://www.equitech.com/articles/origin.html
http://www.equitech.com/articles/widescreen.html

ThomasW
We're still waiting on Plitron, but have been ordering the other stuff needed for the project. Here's a break down.

Chassis Par-Metal #14-19103C $112.80. Clear anodized, not as cool looking as black but hides dust well , (important priority for bachelor living :D ). For those wanting a lower buck option, PE has a same sized chassis that lists for $77 p/n 262-434. This has thinner metal than the Par-Metal chassis. If one goes with the PE chassis then plan on reinforcing the bottom with a layer of Masonite to support the weight of the transformer.

Below are the Mouser.com items we ordered. The 693....... is the Mouser part number

First item below is a 20 amp on/off switch, second item is a 20amp IEC 'power entry module'. That means an IEC AC inlet combined with a high current RFI filter. Using this eliminates the need for a shielded power cable.

693-ABDBL200C0 Schurter TA45 BLK ROCKER 20A $15.41
693-C20F.0001 Schurter FRONT SCREW MT 20A $26.39

These are the 2 values of EMI/RFI filters. The smaller amperage is for front end gear, pre-amps, CDP's etc. The larger 20 amp filter is for higher draw devices like projectors, power amps, receivers. etc.

693-5500.2041 Schurter 1-STAGE STD 6A FMW $ 9.58
693-5500.2047 Schurter 1-STAGE STD 20A FMW2 $ 17.58

The following power cord part was ordered from BrigarElectronics.com

H320C Hubbell 20 amp IEC Female connector $6.95

The actual power cord wire was ordered from PE it's the Carol 12 gauge. PE p/n 100-577 $11.60/25 ft

We've nixed the idea of a 'soft start' device. Smaller transformers let's say 1000va, can be powered up using a simple thermistor. But using one of these isn't a good idea for larger transformers. The reason being that once on they stay on until cooled down. As a result if there's a temporary power loss the Thermistor doesn't have time to cool down and reset. We could use a relay circuit, but that in our opinion will add needless cost and complexity to the design.

To be continued.....

But from time to time Equi=Tech has closeout sales (http://www.equitech.com/products/seconds/seconds.html)

ThomasW
If you haven't already checkout the other balanced power projects on my website.
http://home.comcast.net/~thomasw_2/CheapskateBP1.html

Also here's a link to Glen's DIY design
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?selected=923645

Should give you some ideas about construction and assembly

Sorry for the beginner question but what about plugging a light bulb into this?
AL Garay,
Plugging a lamp into a balanced power unit is quite dangerous.
Standard residential differential power from the wall consists of a +120 volt lead and a neutral lead. The neutral lead is bonded to ground in the loadcenter of your house.
The AC plug on a standard lamp is keyed so when it's plugged into the wall it ensures the base of the bulb is connected to neutral and the pointy business end of the bulb gets the +120 volts.
When you or your family is messing around changing a burnt bulb, they have no way of knowing that the lamp may still be turned on. As they unscrew the burnt bulb, it is highly likely their hand comes in contact with the metal base of the bulb itself. Luckily it is connected to neutral.
Guess what happens if it was plugged into a balanced power unit. The base of the bulb will be at 60 volts..... :(
brucek

Aaron

Anytime you open walls it is good to run some empty conduit for future runs of coax, optical or other communications-type interconnects that you might want to hide in the walls at a later time. There is easy-to-use light weight conduit for just this purpose.