Replacing my tweeters a good idea?

"To many, it shows a lack of REAL knowledge(not the kind that magazine readers espouse) and/or experience in working with loudspeakers." I beg your pardon. I have designed / built / modified dozens upon dozens of speakers systems with references available to support this. This includes both consumer and professional models, as i used to do Pro Sound for a living. If you searched around a little bit on various audio related websites ( Audio Asylum, Audio Review, Klipsch's home page, etc..), you'd find references to "mods" that i've developed on various speaker models and other individuals that have followed them with great success. I currently have over a half dozen different speaker pairs in my basement brought over by local audiophiles for repairs and modifications. These range from La Scala's & Heresy's to Genesis and some custom built pieces by Kinetic Audio. I even have some sound reinforcement cabinets originally made by Peavey that i'm re-doing. Besides that, my brothers' speaker system, which we designed and are still working on, consists of 14 drivers in a total of 12 "cabinets" with active crossovers and is quad-amped (appr. 850 wpc). My main system is tri-amped using speakers that we designed and built with some outside help from Jon Risch on the subwoofer design. It will soon be totally revamped with a total of 6 amplifiers running multiple banks of electrostatic tweeters, multiple mid's and a quartet of woofers per channel. Power output will be somewhere in the range of 1800 wpc. The speaker system that is in my bedroom consists of some small two way stamd mounted satellites (picture Sequerra's MET 7's and you'd be pretty close) and two sealed downloaded subs. I built and designed these also. For my HT system, i'm currently building a center channel speaker. It will consist of a 3/4" dome, a 1 1/2" dome, two eights and a 12" woofer. I purchased identical drivers to what the manufacturer used for my mains and surrounds. By the way, i modified / upgraded those too. The speakers in my computer room system have also been modified ( rewired, re-tuned, braced, upgraded components, etc..). The speakers in my basement system have been completely redesigned and bare little resemblance to the factory produced models, both internally and externally. Needless to say, I think your barking up the wrong tree. I like my music and my electronics. I also have enough knowledge to design and repair most of the equipment if need be. As to inserting a series resistor with a tweeter to reduce its output, yes, it will work. This does not mean that it is the best method to use. It is a quick and dirty approach used or suggested when know-how, skill and money are all at a minimum. Someone that finds themselves in that position would be better off NOT going into ANY piece of audio gear and looking for alternative methods to deal with the problem. An inexpensive ( below $20) set of well chosen interconnects would probably take care of the problem in this specific situation. This would require a lot less effort, no soldering and even less thought as to how to do it. Then again, knowing which interconnects to use would require experimentation and experience. This is something that someone giving advice as a "magazine reader" would probably never know. Sean >

Well thank you for providing your eulogy to us all. I do not frequent other sites, so I am relying on this thread for you to add something meaningful to both this person's problem, and my general knowledge. I would go along with the cable suggestion as something to investigate. Especially in light of the zippy low end Kimber currently being used. But, let's be specific. Could you be so kind as to enlighten me as to what "inexpensive( below $20) set of well chosen interconnects" are capable of getting this person some real results, without hurting other areas? Yes, the resistor is quick and dirty. Is that something to be ashamed of? I don't propose that the guy begin a research campaign. He wants a problem solved. And in your own words regarding the $2 resistor, "it will work".

The cables in question are marketed by a company called "MobileSpec" and come with a limited lifetime warranty. As to the specific model name or number, i don't have that handy. If someone was truly interested in these, they can email me and i will find out the specifics. I can also provide testimonials / references from people that have used them with great results in terms of "taming" a bright / sibilant system and converting it into something that is far more musical and enjoyable. As to your comments pertaining to me being a "magazine reader" and limited in my scope of things audio related, you might want to broaden your own horizons before throwing stones at others. Sean >

The real problem is when i am listening to CD's and when they sing high frequencies such as S or T it comes accross very harsh and seems to linger for a while rather than stop[ping immediately. you know what im talking about? thanks for the input guys

Drop me an email. I've got something that will take care of that problem at no risk to your wallet. Sean >