Which Line Conditioner?

I have to agree that if you can get a dedicated line, go for it. I do not think you should then skip the power conditioner. If your neighbor who gets his power before you do has power tools for a hobby, the dedicated line will give the electrical pollution he creates a more direct line to your system. Stay away from the mass market conditions like Adcom, Panamax & Monster. I guess I keep singing Mike Vansevers praises, but he agrees with all the negative comments by some here and has tried to design products that don't limit power, etc, etc.

Thank you all for all the suggestions. It is really interesting hearing all the differences of opinion. Now, for the hard part. Which one to try. I am going to start with a dedicated power line for the amps. The next question is, does the rest of the equipment need to run through a Line Conditioner are run direct on a seperate line? However, I think I will still check out VansEvers and Wattmate just for the %$#@ of it. Has anyone tried one of the Wattmate units?

The whole key point of a dedicated line that isn't mentioned is INDEPENDENT grounding as well. You will still pick up a lot of interference if you don't do this. The PS Audio product is a little different than a line conditioner filter. I agree with the guys that say go with a dedicated circuit WITH separate grounding and good power cords. The best bang for the buck.

Apart from the specified power lines and PC's, I would audition as many conditioners as possible (preferably the ones that are mentioned above). This is because different ones interract inconsistently with the various conditioners and the amount of pollution in your a/c. Trying to predict the outcome a priori is a total crapshoot. Which is why there are so many opinions and why so many of us have been gouged.

Hi Bmccormick; I have a Tice Elite 4 (almost identical to E-3), and when I plugged my McCormack DNA-2DX (600 wpc/4Ohms) into it, music became much too bright. I called Steve McCormack about this, and he said the DNA-2 should be plugged directly into a wall outlet as it needs to source a LOT of current-- and that did the trick, the brightness went away completely. Since then, I have installed a dedicated AC system and dedicated ground, and my whole system again got too bright. It seems that with dedicated AC, stock power cords become the limiting factor; BTW Redkiwi verified this and helped me figure it out. Over a period of two months I added Synergistic Research Master Couplers to amp, pre-amp, DAC, and transport. This not only corrected the brightness problem but improved music quality/character in all respects-- especially noticeable was a decrease in background noise. Further, I now have all four major components plugged directly into the dedicated wall outlets. I agree with the above posts that recommend a dedicated AC and ground system, but be advised that if you add dedicated AC you will also need good quality power cords if you don't already have them. As for the Tice E-4, I now only have 3 accessories plugged into it and as you know it has 16 outlets!!! I think I'm going to move it to a TV/2nd stereo system. One thing I do regret, is that with major stereo components plugged directly into the wall, they have no spike/surge protection. I am considering the PS 300 for transport, DAC, and pre-amp. Best Luck & Cheers. Craig