Speaker repair-need help


Anybody know of a top notch speaker repair facility that's not afraid to get their hands dirty with a major project? I've already contacted a few such places that i know of and they are either "afraid" of what i want done and / or supposedly don't have the time to do it regardless of how much money they can make on the deal. I am in a jam and need help pronto, so any and all help appreciated. Sean
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PS... If you can, please provide some way for me to contact the party that you recommend. A link to a website, phone number and / or address would be great.
sean
I guess i'll have to wait and see what happens with Commonwealth Edison. I've been pretty good at negotiating insurance claims in the past, but i've never dealt with them before.

Other than that, these speakers have fuses in them from the factory. A lot of good they did i.e. they are still intact. As far as the value goes, i can't recall what they are. I know that i've popped them in the past and replaced them with whatever was in there from the factory. I normally don't like fuses in the signal path, but with the lack of repairability on these drivers, i figured that i'd live with the sonic sacrifice. Then again, i've never had them hooked up to an amp that could deliver 2500+ wpc into them on demand either. Maybe that is a bit too much power for these speakers. Sean
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2500+ wpc (...) on demand (...) maybe ...is A BIT too much power for these speakers..
Sean: tsk, tsk, tsk (my emphasis).
I'm sorry for the resulting complications -- and I doubt you could have done s/thing in advance to avoid this (the fuses would hardly be fast enough to save the game) -- other than implementing the relay El mentioned. Good luck
Sean: I trust Bill implicitly. It sounds like such a major job that perhaps your best bet is to get a replacement pair. He clearly doesn't want to take on a project that involved and believe me he knows what a truly proper repair really is. He will do some major rehabs but if he says its simply too much - its simply too much. What did Ohm tell you-
Freeman-Tuell, 214-324-1132. in Dallas Well known among both home and pro audio folks. Give em' a call.
Mechans: Bill has done this very job many times before from what he told me. As such, it is nothing new to him or too complicated to handle. He simply can't dedicate the amount of necessary time to do the job now. If he were to do that, he would end up loosing money and alienating other customers, which he won't do because he's a good businessman.

Other than that, Ohm doesn't work on these speakers and hasn't done so for several years now. As it is, i wouldn't want to use the stock parts after having talked to Bill and knowing what i do now.

Woodman: I'll try giving them a call in the morning and feel them out. Thanks for the info.

As a side note, i pulled apart a set of Polk 10's that i had sitting in my basement last night. The mid-woofers had previously been replaced with newer, higher grade drivers by my Brother. One of the binding posts had broken off, so i repaired that problem. While i had the one apart, i decided to rewire the cabinet. I replaced the stock tweeter wiring with 22 gauge Silver / Teflon twisted pair conductors. The mid-woofers, which were originally wired "daisy chain" fashion with something like 18 gauge or so, each received their own 12 gauge Silver / Teflon twisted pair feedlines. I used Cardas solder on all connections.

After firing them up, i was expecting to be killed by the typically bright sound of fresh Silver cabling, but i was pleasantly surprised. The sound was actually much smoother than anticipated. Bass was drastically improved in terms of attack, definition and over-all tightness i.e. much less overhang. Bass had surprising "slam" for having only two 6.5" mid-woofers with a 10" passive per cabinet. Then again, the lack of overhang and improved impact may have to do with the rest of the system. Given that i've never had the Polks hooked up to a true voltage source that can easily deliver 1200+ wpc into their 4 ohm load, the sheer "gripping power" of this type of amp may have something to do with this also.

The warmth region now sounds much cleaner, but is a little lean sounding. This is something i've noticed on previous re-wiring jobs i.e. the sound tends to fill out a bit as the wiring / connections settle in. I know that some folks may have a hard time believing something like this, and i did too at first, but i've almost come to expect this now.

The treble response took a change for the better too. Overall, it sounds noticeably cleaner. On one disc that i listened to, the drummer kept striking the "bell" ( center dome ) of a cymbal repeatedly. Quite honestly, i was amazed at how sharp, clean and "real" this sounded. Then he started wailing on the cymbals and everything went back to the old Polk treble that i was used to, but not quite as bad. That is, the treble was smeared and lacking definition. My guess is that individual cymbal strikes are handled reasonably well by the tweeter, but it just doesn't have the transient response to keep up with high intensity rapid fire reproduction of multiple signals all at once.

For now, these will have to suffice for the mains in my HT system. This may give me some added incentive to get busy on the original speakers i had in that system. Not only did i pull them apart to do some more work on them, i also lent out the matching rears that i had for that system. I'm rebuilding some speakers for a friend, so i gave him the towers that i was using as rears to use until i could get his speakers done. As such, my HT system is a real hodge-podge of mix-n-match speaker brands and designs. Sean
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