Thank you, Usblues!
Distortion, you are lucky to have the crossover divided up onto two boards. It's very good design. I am pretty unfamiliar with the Soliloquy speakers, but I have liked the sound of those I have heard.
On the tweeter board, the inductor is obvious. The dime diamater 3/4" long component sounds like the capacitor, but you should really look at the writing on it and the other component. One will give the resistance value and power rating (say 12 Ohm and 5 or 10 watt) and the other will give the capacitance value and voltage (say 8 uF and 250V). In the end, the capacitor is probably encased in plastic, whereas the resistor is probably made of a harder substance such as a ceramic.
You want to simply use one of these jumpers with alligator clips on each end (probably available at any Radio Shack and a lot of Dollar Stores), and attach each end to the opposite resistor leads. This will bypass the resistor with the wire.
In a crossover, the resistor is used to attenuate the tweeter. The vast majority of tweeters are more sensitive than midrange/woofers (ie 92 db/2.83V tweeter and 89 db/2.83V midrange), and the resistor serves to balance things out.
For me, most high end speakers these days sound treble forward, and seem to need more resistance on the tweeter leg. It's a VERY personal thing, which also depends a lot of cabling (as has been wisely mentioned here) as well as the room one is in. With my tastes, in my bright room, I tend to pad down a tweeter too much - perhaps this is also how this speaker was designed. Again, it's a personal thing, but for Autospec, presuming he liked everything else the way things are, reducing the resistance on the tweeter should certainly bring the treble forward.
If one finds the high end wakes up via bypassing the tweeter, but things are too hot and some resistance is needed, I really like the resistors that NorthCreek Music sells. For about $3, they're superior to what just about any high end audio company uses.