Lead shot VR4jr's


I finally bought some lead shot, 2 bags at 25 lbs(which seems like a small bag for such a big cabinet). I am going to attempt loading the speakers this week-end. Those of you that have already done this, is it a compartment that holds the shot, or does it fall to the top when you load it and then bounce around and hit everything when you flip them over? I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but I would appreciate it if you would share your experiences and what you would do differently, given the chance. Did you push a plastic bag inside to be a liner? Did you notice an immediate improvement? Was it worth the effort?
Thanks
jeff
jdodmead
THe VR4JRs contain a separate compartment for the lead shot. The shot will not bounce around inside the main woofer box. Empty the shot directly into the compartment with the woofer box upside down. I found that a one liter water bottle with the bottom cut off makes a good funnel for putting the lead shot into the compartment. You may occasionally need to move the cabinet back-and-forth gently to redistribute the shot since it tends to pyramid as it pours in.

Once completed and reassembled you will notice an immediate and dramatic difference with the lead shot. Absolutely worth the effort. Be sure to use the spikes under the speakers once you've located them where you want them. Also, remember these speakers take about 500 hours to break-in fully. And, bi-wire them if at all possible. That short cable provided to connect the top and bottom cabinets is a compromise at best.
Do differently? Buy new points!!! The standard points that come with those speakers will crack, break and put a gash in your floor if you load them with shot. It happened to one of my local hi-fi buddies and he had to buy new revised points that could handle the added weight.

Arthur
Ditto on the new points. It happened to me with the VR-2's. Get some cones and it will help stop the base of the speaker from self-destructing. When you turn the speakers back over try to lift the speaker onto the cones instead of pivoting onto them.
Oh, and it does make a significant difference.
Can you recommend spikes? Should they be brass rather than aluminum? I do have hardwood floors, if that makes any difference.

Thank you very much for the advice
Jeff
I'm the person Aball mentioned. I contacted my dealer and he was able to get me the new version of the spikes from Von Schweikert for free. I also have hardwood floors and set my spikes onto homemade pads to protect my floors. The pads consist of 2 parts: a metal disk glued onto a felt backed phenolic furniture glide. The disk was made from galvanized steel electrical outlet box's knockouts with a small dimple drilled into the center for the point to rest in.