Amp and preamp on same outlet?

"IF, Furutech plugs and receptacles are UL and or CSA Listed"

My Furutech GTX-D(R) 20A 125V receptacle is, it's printed right on the box.

thankyou p59teitel, that is what I have, two furutech GTX-D Rhodium's,and wall frame and cover plate, I have all the box's too, just have not had time to look at the box's and info, cheers.

03-06-15: Jea48
Edit to my last post.

Do you know the ampere rating of the circuit breaker mounded in the back rear panel of the amp? 15 amp? 20 amp? Do you know if it is a magnetic trip breaker only?

@ Jea48

I spoke with my tech today and I asked him about the breaker panel question you had.
This fellow has worked on the master Krells as a Krell tech and is independent now almost retired status.
This was over the phone and I caught him in a parking lot, but he did tell me the breaker on the back of the Krell amps has four wires.
It will go off not only by heat, but through something being wrong in the music signal path electronically.
This is done remotely and is tied into the soft start at the front of he amp.
He could not say for sure being in a parking lot, but he believe this breaker is rated for 20 amp.
He has had to replace only one in his time servicing these amps.
Also the stock Krell cord indeed has a 15 amp male plug, and probably for the reason you mentioned here earlier, but he feels it is good for 35 amps. It is a heavy sonofabitch.

One more thing.

I brought up what was discussed here about putting a 30 amp breaker in the fuse panel on a 20 amp line.
He laughed, called it counter productive and for what ? He does not support it, for some of reasons stated here and used some words that I can't publish here. He then rimmed me and told me to stop reading internet banter. I told him it was cabin fever but that today is a nice day so I will go out and play.

Well ....I needed an excuse to call him. he is over hauling my Music Reference RM9. Good news is I should be getting it back soon.

****************************

03-06-15: Audiolabyrinth
I have $11,500.00 into my amp!

Hi Audiolabyrinth

$11.500 ?

A total recap (small and large caps) and refurbishing of the big Krell amps, parts and labor by a qualified tech is in the $2000 range.
You spent 5 times this amount. You must have made some design changes.
Hotrodded it ?

Assuming you now have a one of a kind Krell amp, and this explains some of the anomalies you were hearing with the 20 amp service ? .... which I just could not understand.

Enjoy it.
Happy Listening.

Also the stock Krell cord indeed has a 15 amp male plug, and probably for the reason you mentioned here earlier, but he feels it is good for 35 amps. It is a heavy sonofabitch.
03-07-15: Ct0517

LOL, he feels it is good for 35 amps? The manufacture of the plug rated the plug for a continuous connected load of 12 amps as per NEC Code, NEMA standards, as well as UL testing for a NEMA 5-15P 125V 15 amp plug. In other words the 15 amp plug can only be used on equipment that has an FLA of 12 amps or less. The 15 amp plug's blades and ground pin are the same size as that found on a 20 amp plug. The difference between the 15 amp plug and the 20 amp plug is on the 20 amp plug the neutral blade is turned 90 degrees with respect to the hot blade. In the electrical trade that is called making the device idiot proof. A 20 amp plug cannot be plugged into a 15 amp receptacle that could be connected to a 15 amp branch circuit, that is protected by a 15 amp breaker, in most cases the branch circuit wiring is #14 awg rated for 15 amps max.

Do you think Krell is so stupid they do not know that? Hey, but the tech says the plug is good for 35 amps. I guess he would say the #14 cu wire is good for 35 amps as well.

Forget about the plug, think about the non knowing consumer that bought the amp. If the plug on the amp plugs into the wall receptacle in his living room that's all that matters. Think the guy knows the branch circuit is only a 15 amp? All the consumer knows is that Krell knows what they are doing and the plug on the end of the cord plugged into the receptacle. Then his problems start. Who does he call first? Probably the dealer that sold him the amp. Just change the 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp breaker. Problem solved. Hell, the tech said the plug is good for 35 amps. Change it out to a 30 amp breaker! What’s a few more connected load amps among friends.

I brought up what was discussed here about putting a 30 amp breaker in the fuse panel on a 20 amp line.
He laughed, called it counter productive and for what ? He does not support it, for some of reasons stated here and used some words that I can't publish here. He then rimmed me and told me to stop reading internet banter. I told him it was cabin fever but that today is a nice day so I will go out and play.

If he does not support it why is Krell telling owners of the amp to do it?

He then rimmed me and told me to stop reading internet banter.

Oh, I just bet he did! Maybe if he read what is posted on audio forums he might learn something. He may also learn non-qualified people are doing what he/Krell suggests and or maybe worse.
.

Like I said early on in this thread Krell should be ashamed of themselves.

I would guess the tech is not a state licensed electrician and it is obvious he does not know what the hell he is talking about. His expertise stops where the power cord exits the equipment.

IF the amp has a 20 amp breaker on the back panel then the 125V plug should be a 20 amp plug. Krell should stop telling dealers as well as consumers that a 15 amp plug is good for 35 amps. The plug is not the issue. The issue is what the plug can be plugged into. If krell thought the 15 amp plug was plenty big, there in the FLA of the equipment does not exceed 12 amps, then they should have installed a 15 amp circuit breaker on the rear panel of the amp instead of a 20. Do you know why they didn't?

NEC Code

Table 210.21(B)(2) Maximum Cord-and-Plug-Connected Load to Receptacle
.