Vandersteen 2wq Subwoofer Help

I decoupled my Vandy nine years ago and have never gone back to the spikes. I did place "unhappy" balls where the spikes would normally have screwed in and placed a 25# sack of lead shot (BB's) on top. A friend couldn't find the unhappy balls so he used hocky pucks and blue tacked them to the bottom of the sub.

Also, I have this all sitting on a sandwiched 18" cermic tile platform. I held the tiles together by using Mortite "roof and gutter" patch tape sandwiched between the tile's non-glazed back's. This also made the platform totally dead to vibration (knuckle rapped it). If you can't find the patch tape, you can use roof calking or rope calking. Other than the rope calking, this stuff is messy so be careful where you use it.

OBTW, since one of the glazed tiles faces down, it is very easy to push them around on a carpeted floor.

Good luck,
L

It seems to me, that the speaker was designed for spikes. If you like the Vandersteen sound, you should use them as intended. If you need spikes call Richard or your local Vandersteen dealer. All balls, blocks, new power cords, etc. makes the speakers sound different, but not better...but they are yours and you should do what you think you want to do.

I'm wondering if the mat won't be counter productive by reducing the vibrations that help bass resonate with the floor. I put my ear against the top, and could hear the bass and feel the vibrations which must help the overall sound(feeling). Won't more resonance be created if the sub is the height of the spikes off the floor? Did you get the high pass filter and setup instructions? The subs are side ported so mostly vibrations are coming out the bottom. Let us know what you find.

I'd use hard steel points in small steel protectors.Eperiment with bit of mass loading under as well.Mybe a heavy iron amp stand from Sound Anchor.
Chazz