What capacitor values?

I haven't had any electrostatics since my Acoustat Model III's. But- I almost bought a pair of ML Sequels a few years back. A local store was blowing their last pair out for 1/2 price(whatta temptation that was). I've been using modded Maggies for mains for a number of years now. My bi-amped transmission-line woofers just work too well to replace, and most ML's are hybrids. NOW- If I could find a pair with blown woofers for cheap.... OH- BTW: If your mid-range rolls off smoothly around 5k(and is already 3db down at that point), you could get away w/o an inductor on it. I try never to underestimate another's ears, unless they give me an obvious indication that they don't know what they're hearing(or can't hear at all, as the case may be). I hope some of this helps you out, and: Happy re-designing!

Rodman,
Just wanted to thank you again for your help.
I soldered in some cheap caps of 40uF for the mids and tried both 4.7uf and 5.6uf for the tweeters while I waited for my Duelund caps to be made and sent.
Established that the 40uF and 5.6uf were good values and when the Duelunds arrived I wired them in.
The sound is now extraordinary.
The Duelunds are just crystal clear with no audible grain at any frequency.
The overall balance of the speakers is (to me)....seamless.
There are still no inductors (coils) or resistors so just 1 cap between the Mid and 1 cap between the tweeter.
Until the so-called 'speaker designers' listen to what minimal cross-over complexity can actually achieve, they will keep dishing up boxes which may measure well but which sound little like 'real' music.
The fact that so many audiophiles seek out speakers OTHER than boxes stuffed with cross-overs, should indicate that the formulas and methodology have failed.
Can anyone name a 3 way moving-coil 'box' speaker designed 20 or 30 years ago that people still listen to?
Yet Quad Electrostatics, Klipschorn horns, Accoustat panels still cut it.

Hi Mr H: I'm glad those values worked out so well for you. I'll bet they sound even better after a couple hundred hours of music. As far as older box speakers that sound like "real" music: The Dahlquist DQM-9 is an excellent system still. Actually built by Magnat(a German co.) with a very complex crossover, they still deliver a wonderfully open, accurate sound with great imaging. I bought a pair for my son some years back(we restored them, without any actual "mods"), and he's found no reason to replace them yet. There are still a number of the old LS3-5A systems out there cranking out accurate sound/excellent imaging, so- they DO exist! Glad I could help. Enjoy the music!!

I tried to help you;) Didnt tell ya to shit can anything. Pretty hard to rework a network of a custom speaker that has no info available but what little you listed. You should be happy anyone took there time to post. And I design loudspeakers and yes we mostly use simple networks with costly parts or use no crossovers at all with some designs. Just that most 12in woofers have rising responce mostly arround 2khz up. So most 12in and larger woofers need at least a basic crossover to reduce this peak. I know of only a few that dont and these are costly alnico mag woofers aaa few vintage. Thus the inductor sugestion which would be sudo 1st order no phase shift -6db slope. And still might improve your sound quality.