Rob_hughes writes:
>Depends... what kind of music do you listen to? Most rock, pop, and jazz won't really benefit if your speakers will reproduce at least 40Hz
I've never heard a 2-way system which didn't benefit immensely from adding a sub-woofer, even with measured in-room response below 40Hz.
With an 80-120Hz cross-over (the later suggesting one or more sub-woofers at the front of the room) you reduce mid-range IM distortion and clean it up.
SBIR effects (where the main speaker is at odd multiples of 1/4 wave length from a wall) are significantly reduced when you move frequencies matching the first null out of the main speaker into a sub-woofer that's acoustically close to the wall in its entire pass-band.
You also get more latitude in positioning; where the main speakers can go where they image best and are as close to the listener as you can get them for the best clarity (no more than it takes to get beyond the near-field and have the drivers integrate properly; probably at about 8') and the sub-woofers go where they need to for the best interaction with the room (notably its resonances).
>If you listen to a lot of classical and/or anything with a lot of piano, then it might. But don't go cheap. A cheap sub will sound horrible. You can pick up something used, but very good, for a few hundred and be happy instead of having a $100 sub sitting in the closet.
Integration is also an issue. You want to be able to high-pass most main speakers.
>Depends... what kind of music do you listen to? Most rock, pop, and jazz won't really benefit if your speakers will reproduce at least 40Hz
I've never heard a 2-way system which didn't benefit immensely from adding a sub-woofer, even with measured in-room response below 40Hz.
With an 80-120Hz cross-over (the later suggesting one or more sub-woofers at the front of the room) you reduce mid-range IM distortion and clean it up.
SBIR effects (where the main speaker is at odd multiples of 1/4 wave length from a wall) are significantly reduced when you move frequencies matching the first null out of the main speaker into a sub-woofer that's acoustically close to the wall in its entire pass-band.
You also get more latitude in positioning; where the main speakers can go where they image best and are as close to the listener as you can get them for the best clarity (no more than it takes to get beyond the near-field and have the drivers integrate properly; probably at about 8') and the sub-woofers go where they need to for the best interaction with the room (notably its resonances).
>If you listen to a lot of classical and/or anything with a lot of piano, then it might. But don't go cheap. A cheap sub will sound horrible. You can pick up something used, but very good, for a few hundred and be happy instead of having a $100 sub sitting in the closet.
Integration is also an issue. You want to be able to high-pass most main speakers.