Hi Styrk - welcome to the thread.
In addition to Banquo's comments pls see mine below.
Firstly pls note that a ET 2.5 and HPM (High Pressure Manifold) are two different separate things. There are low pressure 2.5's out there. Banquo has one of them.
To upgrade to a 2.5 from a 2.0 (high or low pressure manifold) means sending your 2.0 manifold, its housing and 2.0 spindle to Bruce. He will return to you a 2.5 manifold and housing and 2.5 spindle. The VTA Block should not be separated from the housing. This way Bruce can ensure it works properly.
The 2.5 spindle is a bigger diameter and the hole in the manifold housing made bigger to accommodate the larger manifold and spindle diameter.
The larger 2.5 tube resonates at a lower frequency and a better design overall for low compliance cartridges. A better design can lead to more potential. But the 2.0 works with low compliance cartridges as well. Just requires more tweaking.
If it is a NOS upgrade kit the capillaries should be clean ?
See the maintenance cleaning procedures in the manual. You can start with isopropyl and a toothbrush.
There should be no oil in there. There may be some grease on the exterior of the rings for a smooth fitting.
Assuming MPM is as Banquo said from Bruce' note, a High Pressure Manifold ?
"Banquo363 - The initials on the 2.5 manifold are actually HPM and it stands for high pressure manifold. This means the pressure range is between 5-10 PSI but it could be higher if the person who purchased it asked for one to be used with a shop compressor."
I have said this before here. The best way IMO to find out what PSI your manifold was designed for by Bruce, if you bought a used one ....
First clean it out and make sure the capillaries are not clogged.
Make sure the pump/s is actually producing the expected PSI at the arm "NOT" at the pump.
Then start raising the PSI till it works well. Go one to 2 psi above.
Working well means all the way through but especially the last track when everything is level.
Use gravity to level the Spindle.
Does this make it clearer ? Ask any questions, we are here to help. We all started where you are now.
Welcome to the fun......
8^0
Be interested in Bruce' reply to this one .....
In addition to Banquo's comments pls see mine below.
I have a ET2 that Im trying to upgrade to a 2.5
but have problem running it on 7.5 psi. It was marked mpm
Firstly pls note that a ET 2.5 and HPM (High Pressure Manifold) are two different separate things. There are low pressure 2.5's out there. Banquo has one of them.
To upgrade to a 2.5 from a 2.0 (high or low pressure manifold) means sending your 2.0 manifold, its housing and 2.0 spindle to Bruce. He will return to you a 2.5 manifold and housing and 2.5 spindle. The VTA Block should not be separated from the housing. This way Bruce can ensure it works properly.
The 2.5 spindle is a bigger diameter and the hole in the manifold housing made bigger to accommodate the larger manifold and spindle diameter.
The larger 2.5 tube resonates at a lower frequency and a better design overall for low compliance cartridges. A better design can lead to more potential. But the 2.0 works with low compliance cartridges as well. Just requires more tweaking.
Any way to clean out the hole think there can be a bit of oil in them. This have a NOS upgrade kit came in plastikk bag and was a bit greasy. Have clean it a bit with alcohol
I have a feeling that is a bit clogged. What is the min working pressure for a mpm?
If it is a NOS upgrade kit the capillaries should be clean ?
See the maintenance cleaning procedures in the manual. You can start with isopropyl and a toothbrush.
There should be no oil in there. There may be some grease on the exterior of the rings for a smooth fitting.
Assuming MPM is as Banquo said from Bruce' note, a High Pressure Manifold ?
"Banquo363 - The initials on the 2.5 manifold are actually HPM and it stands for high pressure manifold. This means the pressure range is between 5-10 PSI but it could be higher if the person who purchased it asked for one to be used with a shop compressor."
I have said this before here. The best way IMO to find out what PSI your manifold was designed for by Bruce, if you bought a used one ....
First clean it out and make sure the capillaries are not clogged.
Make sure the pump/s is actually producing the expected PSI at the arm "NOT" at the pump.
Then start raising the PSI till it works well. Go one to 2 psi above.
Working well means all the way through but especially the last track when everything is level.
Use gravity to level the Spindle.
Does this make it clearer ? Ask any questions, we are here to help. We all started where you are now.
Welcome to the fun......
Banquo363.
Last night I wanted to test the manifold to see whether it alone was the issue. In my case, when everything is level and vtf is at 0, the arm always races down towards the inner grooves. I have to tilt the counterweight side up to prevent this--and this is when some binding occurs. For the test, what I did was put the manifold into the housing 'backwards' to see what effect that would have. The spindle now raced towards the outer grooves.
8^0
Be interested in Bruce' reply to this one .....