Tonearm recommendation

Hello Thomas from Bavaria,
Now, we're talking.
While I still am leaning towards keeping the FR66s, I will humbly admit that going with something more modern has been calling me, even if it's only to my vanity. The ONLY problem I have with the FR66s is it's mass, and while I know there are ways to somewhat ameliorate that issue, it's still somewhat constrictive in cartridge choice. So I still have been seriously considering an upgrade or lateral move, depending upon one's point of view.

I've been doing a lot of studying, and the Reed tonearms were in my radar. I thought about the 3P, but I don't need the azimuth on the fly capability, as I have the Feickert Adjust+ program in house to set it once properly. I really was looking at one, or maybe two Reed 2A tonearms, each optimized for two different cartridge compliances. One would be for my Koetsu or Denon combo, and one would be for my Grado Statement, a much higher compliance unit than the other two. But your comments on the resonance issues concerns me. Is it possible for you to speculate that the issue might be caused by the variable azimuth correction on the 3P, or is it maybe intrinsic in the basic nature of the Reed arms in general. I know that asking a lot and putting you on a limb.

I also am very interested in a Durand Talea2, as it appears, from what I've read and studied to be a world class arm. Do you have any experience with it?

I found the OL arms a while back, and I keep thinking they look mighty fine and should be considered. Your comments on the Conqueror are quite enlightening. If I understand your comments correctly, of the arms you have the Conqueror is the cat's meow, STS, and the one you would want to live with.

BTW, I wouldn't hesitate to go with the OL 12 inch Enterprise. Their arms do look good, and especially that one.

Thanks Thomas for any input or further thoughts you may provide, as it is much appreciated.

Also, anyone else, please feel free to offer any input.

Again, many thanks.

Cheers,                      Crazy Bill

Hi Bill, if you measure the resonance of the Reed 3P you will see that there is something going on under 20Hz, what has nothing to do with music.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hdh5lef1i9e01ua/Resonanz%20EMT%20am%20Reed.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yrmmnqz4sonay7p/AP_FresResponseReport%20-%20Lyra%20Delos%20-%203P.pdf?dl=0

I think this it is a problem with the counterweight and the magnetic bearing (swinging). I have heard Reed has reduced the problem, but don`t now more about it. Still the arm sounds really good!

I would go with the 2A, if you will buy a Reed.

The OL is very fine azimuth adjustable over the 2 pivotscrews, but the range is limited and you have to talk with Mr. Baker bevore.
I have the internal and external Silver-Hybrid cables. Baker uses thinner internal than external cables which are soldered.
http://www.originlive.com/key-information-overview.html
Here you can read a lot of information. Maybe build philosophy at first...

If you want i can make some pictures of the arm for you.

Bye, Thomas

The best place to damp the arm/cartridge is at the headshell---the rational for the Townshend Rock turntable. The trough of silicon damping fluid is viscous enough to drastically reduce the resonance exhibited by all phono systems, but not so great as to restrict arm movement. Very effective.

Raul, I can see, in theory, why static balanced would be superior, but I wonder if just a little resistance, provided by some dynamic balancing, might actually work better in practice(as advocated by the 1/3 dynamic argument).  That might provide a little resistance to big movements and such, while keeping the ringing.at an acceptable level.

Dear bdp24: Agree, at the headshell is where to start the overall cartridge/tonearm damping. Mr. Townshend was and is right.

Btw, we must avoid to use any headshell builded with raw aluminum or raw steel, are the worst ones. We need damping there as bdp24 said it.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.