Synergistic Red Fuse ...

I had a Red and Black fuse blow back to back in my DAC upon installation and power up. Luckily the dealer took them back. Otherwise I'd be out of $200 without even an audition.

I don’t like to draw any conclusions before all the facts are in but so far this appears to be just a lot of who shot John, with the usual suspects all lined up trying to punch holes in the whole aftermarket fuse balloon, as is their wont. It’s not like aftermarket fuses are anything new, what is it like twenty years? yet the pessimism and uber skepticism doth persist. True or false, all the skeptics are very content and happy with their systems and have no desire whatsoever to try and coax that last 5% performance out of their systems? :-)

^^^ Exactly geoffkait ... even if they are offered a spare Red fuse FOR FREE!!!!  

Isn't it interesting how the naysayers come right back out from the shadows the very moment someone has a problem with his quirky amp that was saved from being blown to smithereens by a fuse that did its job? 

What more can a person do to make a point other than to offer his spare fuse to a member for free, including shipping ... or to resolve joncourage's problem for him, then supply him the contact information for SR?

Personally, I'm sick and tired of trolls who try to tear the seams of everyone's dreams. (Hey, wasn't there a song to that effect?)  :-)

In the meantime, my system is sounding terrific. Its never sounded better. And, I'm looking forward to the next SR Black fuse that will be going into the ARC REF-75se. 

Oh yes, and on the subject of ARC ... we find the same naysayers in every thread started regarding ARC products too. What's up with these guys? Envy? Jealousy? Dark hearts? Someone kicked their cat? What????

Hang in ...

I'd look at the fuses that work and see if they have a T inscribed on the end, or have a spiral wire instead of a straight element. If either are true, they are likely slow blow.  I found this, but can't vouch for its correctness: "If the fuse is in the loudspeaker circuit, ie, in series with the loudspeaker as a load, then it needs to tolerate occasional overloads, but open on continued overload - so, medium slow blow. If the fuse is in series with a transistorised power supply's pass transistor, then it needs to be a very fast blow. If the fuse is in the mains input lead before any power supply unit, then it needs to sustain the start-up current required to charge the main filter capacitors - so, slow blow."

@audiolabyrinth 
Sounds good, thanks for the advice.