Synergistic Red Fuse ...


I installed a SR RED Quantum fuse in my ARC REF-3 preamp a few days ago, replacing an older high end fuse. Uhh ... for a hundred bucks, this little baby is well worth the cost. There was an immediate improvement upon installation, but now that its broken in (yes, no kidding), its quite remarkable. A tightening of the focus, a more solid image, and most important of all for my tastes, a deeper appreciation for the organic sound of the instruments. Damn! ... cellos sound great! Much improved attack on pianos. More humanistic on vocals. Bowed bass goes down forever. Next move? .... I'm doing the entire system with these fuses. One at a time though just to gauge the improvement in each piece of equipment. The REF-75se comes next. I'll report the results as the progression takes place. Stay tuned ...

Any comments from anyone else who has tried these fuses?
128x128oregonpapa
^^^ Exactly geoffkait ... even if they are offered a spare Red fuse FOR FREE!!!!  

Isn't it interesting how the naysayers come right back out from the shadows the very moment someone has a problem with his quirky amp that was saved from being blown to smithereens by a fuse that did its job? 

What more can a person do to make a point other than to offer his spare fuse to a member for free, including shipping ... or to resolve joncourage's problem for him, then supply him the contact information for SR?

Personally, I'm sick and tired of trolls who try to tear the seams of everyone's dreams. (Hey, wasn't there a song to that effect?)  :-)

In the meantime, my system is sounding terrific. Its never sounded better. And, I'm looking forward to the next SR Black fuse that will be going into the ARC REF-75se. 

Oh yes, and on the subject of ARC ... we find the same naysayers in every thread started regarding ARC products too. What's up with these guys? Envy? Jealousy? Dark hearts? Someone kicked their cat? What????

Hang in ...
I'd look at the fuses that work and see if they have a T inscribed on the end, or have a spiral wire instead of a straight element. If either are true, they are likely slow blow.  I found this, but can't vouch for its correctness: "If the fuse is in the loudspeaker circuit, ie, in series with the loudspeaker as a load, then it needs to tolerate occasional overloads, but open on continued overload - so, medium slow blow. If the fuse is in series with a transistorised power supply's pass transistor, then it needs to be a very fast blow. If the fuse is in the mains input lead before any power supply unit, then it needs to sustain the start-up current required to charge the main filter capacitors - so, slow blow."
Your welcome Lowrider57, electroslacker, great post, you gave me a detailed explanation as to why I have the large 1-amp fast blow ×4 fuses in my krell 700cx, you said-If the fuse is in series with a transistorised power supply’s pass transistor, then it needs to be a very fast blow., however, I’m still going to go with .2 .3 .25 higher, lol! , I would be like a zombie around the house if my fuses blew up, in the world of high end audio, $520.00 is not a lot of money, but fuses, mmm, yes it is! , you should have heard Ray Muchler’s-the service manager voice change in tone their at krell when I told him the cost of the fuses on the phone,  let’s just say he thought I was crazy, but hey, what’s new? , most people believe all audiophiles are.
Very sticky situation.  Hopefully gets resolved in a constructive manner for all involved. 

I'm very interested to hear how it turns out.