Tonearm recommendation


Hello all,
Recently procured a Feickert Blackbird w/ the Jelco 12 inch tonearm.
The table is really good, and its a keeper. The Jelco is also very good, but not as good as my Fidelity Research FR66s. So the Jelco will eventually hit Ebay, and the question remains do I keep the FR66s or sell that and buy something modern in the 5-6 K range. My only point of reference is my old JMW-10 on my Aries MK1, so I don't know how the FR66s would compare to a modern arm. So I'd like to rely on the collective knowledge and experience of this group for a recommendation.

Keep the FR66s, or go modern in the 5-6K range, say a Moerch DP8 or maybe an SME.

Any and all thoughts and opinions are of course much appreciated.

Cheers,      Crazy Bill
wrm0325
Dear Ct0517,
First, there is a thriving DIYer population that would have/does have no problem re-wiring vintage pivoted tonearms to suit whatever is one's preference for type, quality, and length of wire. There are even a few businesses that do it for the timid.
Second, if one is purchasing a new pivoted tonearm, there are several manufacturers, including, to name only three, Reed, Triplanar, and I am fairly sure Durand, who will supply said tonearm with just about any internal wiring one's heart could desire (copper, silver, cryo, elfin, etc) and said wire can be ordered up to go all the way from the headshell to the phono stage input jacks.  Both my Reed 2A and my Triplanar are thus configured, based on my philosophy that the best connector is no connector. 

Actually, Herb Papier, the original designer and builder of the Triplanar, is to be credited for being a very early adaptor of the "straight shot" wiring scheme, 15-20 years ago.  I grant you that all the named brands of tonearm are expensive and may be beyond the reach of many in terms of cost, but then there is in fact the DIY route or buying "second hand" on Audiogon, etc. 

This is no criticism of your ET tonearm, and I think you made a good choice to avoid connectors in the signal path when possible.  If I were going to a tangential tonearm, I would also strongly consider the Trans-Fi.  But I don't like air pumps.
ct0517,

   Yes my 30+ years of employment was in the field you have mentioned, but I fail to remember where you dug this information up from?  I guess I will just have to blame that lack of recall on 'old age'!  (grin)
   One thing I also failed to mention.  Mexico City also had one of the 'dirtiest' electrical grids on the planet (population 21 million), with constant failures/breakdowns.  Not my idea of what would contribute to a happy listening sessions!  I can only assume that Raul must use some kind of 'power regulation' in his system.
If not.  ?????
Regards,
Dear don_c55: What in my opinion is a must to have from any tonearm is an user friendly ACCURATE cartridge/tonearm JIG for that set up.

It's ridiculous ( for say the least ) that almost any one of us own not one but several after market jigs/protractors because the one that comes with the tonearm is not ACCURATE or not user friendly.

IMHO, this is the major fault of almost all tonearm manufacturers. If these manufacturers make a good Jig/protractor then no one of us could want any after market device. That JIG is not " rocket science ".

That  tonearm/cartridge JIG is critical and an obligation by the tonearm manufacturers.

That's the " perfect " audio world where we live!.


Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
@rauliruegas I cannot agree more. It's ridiculous that most tonearm manufacturers do not make an accurate, high quality jig to go with their own arms.

and we plod on..... Most manufactures do provide a protractor. Best reg. protractors are provided by arm manufacturers. What do you want, a Feikert?  Add that to the cost of your arm and complain about that.

Ct0517, I found other mfg. comments (Re. 507) you posted, interesting.  Thanks. Lewm answered the bit about being able to use a straight run of wire in a pivoting arm. The rest of the quote from the loom maker is bizarre. It's the arm with exposed unshielded wire which is susceptible to RF and a Faraday cage won't help as long as the wires are exposed.

ViV Rigid Float anyone?  Interesting concept there, trading off alignment error for zero offset. This isn't a new concept. Yamaha had a YSA-2 upgrade for the GT2000, and the RS Labs which also had vertical cantilever offset compensation.